Video Transcript

00:00:00:23 - 00:00:30:21

Beautiful dreamer, make unto me
 Starlight and dew drops are waiting for thee
 
 Hi, this is Maria from dresspatternmaking.com.
 This is Part 5 in a series of 6 videos. This is a very short video to briefly cover how the Bodice Block instructions that I'll be putting up in a few weeks time on YouTube differ from the current Bodice Block instructions that are already there on my channel.

00:00:31:13 - 00:00:57:03

If you have watched videos 1 to 4, this will make sense as it draws on theory that I have covered in those videos. If you haven't watched them, it probably won't make a lot of sense to you. So I have refined my system and here I will briefly summarize How and Why. And those new instructions will be up about 2 to 3 weeks after my last video in this series, which is the measurements needed for those next instructions.

00:00:58:09 - 00:01:23:01

So there are 5 new measurements in my new system. The Upper Bust Arc Front, Upper Bust Arc Back, Bust Arc Front, Bust Arc Back, and the Bust Depth at the Side Seam. Plus, I'll be including some checking measurements. There are some measurements which you can take a number of different ways and it's best to take them all those ways to make sure you have the right measurement rather than just rely on one and then find out later on that it was wrong.

00:01:23:21 - 00:01:43:10

And the third thing, the key thing with my new system is that we're going to plot the body measurements and then add the ease for the sleeveless block and then at ease for the sleeve block. You can trace off either all or the Moulage, the Sleeveless and the Sleeve block. It's up to you. You can see quite clearly where the ease is.

00:01:44:01 - 00:02:09:06

So you could also increase it or decrease it if you want to. So currently my instructions divide the Upper Bust by 4 to get the width of the back and front blocks at the upper bust and then use the patternmaking bust cups to work up the width of the block at the bust level. The new system will be based on Bust Arcs that includes the Upper Bust Arc and the Bust Arc.

00:02:09:16 - 00:02:38:24

This means the measurement from side seam to side seam. The arcs should add up to the total measurement. For example, the Upper Bust Front and the Upper Bust Arc Back should add up to the Upper Bust <easurement. Similarly, for the Bust, the Bust Arc Front and the Bust Arc Back should add up to the Bust measurement. So we'll be using those arc measurements to work out the block at the upper bust and the bust level.

00:02:38:24 - 00:03:09:00

So we won't be relying on that patternmaking Bust Cup system to work out the width of the bust - we’ll be using the actual measurements. And as I said, if you've watched my previous video, that should make sense to you. So here's an example of why the system needs refining. It was actually women with small breasts that made me realize that there is an assumption built into even the making bust cup system where the bust cup is determined by the difference between the upper bust measurement and the bust measurement.

00:03:09:12 - 00:03:32:01

Now look at Didi. Her upper bust is only half inch smaller than a bust. Therefore, it would seem that she would only need to go out 5/16 of an inch from the upper bust rectangle rather than the 5/8 of an inch needed by the A bust cup. Since it's half the amount of the ‘A’ bust cup. However, that 5/16 of an inch is insufficient.

00:03:32:11 - 00:03:57:00

Dadi actually needs the full amount of an A cup. So even though she measures only 1/2 an inch more in the upper bust, she needs the angle that you get with 1 inch difference. And the reason for that is obvious wen you look at her front ARCs: Upper Bust and Bust. Her Upper Bust Arc Front is 19 inches and her full Bust Arc Front is 20 inches.

00:03:57:15 - 00:04:19:08

So there is one inch difference between her two front Arcs. Now, if I drafted Didi's block using my previous instructions, the width of the block at the upper bust would not be the problem. The problem would have been that she would think that she needs less than an ‘A’ cup and draft to less than the ‘A’ cup, and the cup would be insufficient.

00:04:19:08 - 00:04:44:19

The angle of the bust cup would be insufficient. It would be the bust arc that makes the difference for her. So that means that there is some assumption built into the making bust cup system around what proportion of the difference between the upper bust and bust measurements is in the front and what proportion is in the back? But my new instructions will use the arcs and that will solve the problem as it will remove any assumptions.

00:04:46:07 - 00:05:05:21

Now there are a few measurements that you can take a number of ways. So here, as an example, the bust depth can be measured from the Center Front Neck Point down or from the High Neck Point down, or on the shoulder slope. I will suggest that these measurements are taken a number of ways for confirmation. With drafting blocks, getting the measurements correct is half the problem.

00:05:06:00 - 00:05:27:01

It doesn't hurt to confirm them. So to summarize, I'll be using the measurements of those arcs. The upper bust arc and the full bust arc to work out the block width and to work out the width at the bust level. So we won't be relying on the patternmaking bust cups to work out the bust. We'll be working with the actual measurements.

00:05:27:21 - 00:05:47:16

This also means, of course, that we'd get the correct width for the back. So some people are smaller in the back, proportionally and others are larger. Now, in the new instructions, we'll start by plotting the body measurements. Doing it that way means that you will be able to clearly see that you have the bust covered, as it were, and then add the ease after that.

00:05:47:23 - 00:06:05:11

Now, I think drafting it this way will take out all the confusion of the bust cups And as you can see, where the ease is, you can choose either to draft a Sleeveless block first or the Sleeves block. You could even make a Moulage if that's the way you want to go. But I think you need to put a zip in or you can't do it up because it would be skin tight.

00:06:05:23 - 00:06:32:04

But the key to getting this right, though, is getting the correct measurements for the Bust Arcs -Upper and Full bust, Front and Back, which I will cover in the next video. Now, if you find my tutorials useful, consider supporting me by buying me a cup of coffee on Ko-Fi. This money goes to help pay for my website expenses and pay the subscription cost of the Adobe Creative Suite, which I need to use to make all the graphics, the videos, etc..

00:06:32:20 - 00:06:59:24

So until the next tutorial.. .chao.
 Beautiful dreamer, wake unto me
 Starlight and dew drops are waiting for thee
 Sounds of the rude world, heard in the day
 Lulled by the moonlight, have all passed away.