Bodice Front Style 24

The bodice of this garment has a rectangular panel in the CF, from the BPs up to the mid-shoulder. The design line on the half-block runs down from the mid-shoulder point to the Bust Point, then then horizontally from the BP to the Center Front. There are no darts; the darts have been incorporated into the style-line. This style will have 2 pattern pieces for the front bodice.

Example: Outcome

Figure B shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 24) on the right.

The focus of these instructions is covering the theory and practice of manipulating darts and the exercise finishes after the dart manipulation has been done. For production ready patterns you would need to take further steps to add seam allowance, pattern labels, pattern piece numbers, the grainline, etc.

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 1

In these images I have used color for emphasis only. Use a hard pencil (4H-6H) when hand drafting patterns.

• Draw the new design line on your block; from the Bust Point to the CF.
• Draw a line from mid-shoulder to the Bust Point.

I have marked the points A, B, C, D, E & F on the block to assist in the instructions.  You do not have to write these on your block.  Note that A, B, C, D, E & F relate to the points where the dart leg meets the edge of the block, as shown by the arrow tips. 

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 2

• Mark the Bust Point by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole.
• Extend the dart leg lines D & E out past the block. To make sure the line true, use a ruler to line up the Bust Point and the dart leg on the edge of the block, and continue that line beyond the block onto the paper (indicated by a red arrow in the image).

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 3

• Holding the block firmly in place so that it doesn't move, pivot the block in a clockwise direction until the waist dart is closed. (i.e. pivot the block until the dart leg C meets the waist line, indicated on the image by the red arrow.
• Trace the block from point B, the new waist design line, to dart leg C.

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 4

• Holding the block down at the Bust Point, pivot the block back to the original position (where dart leg D touches the waist arrow).
• Trace around the block from dart leg D to dart leg E.

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 5

• Holding the block down at the Bust Point, pivot the block in an anti-clockwise direction until the side seam dart is closed. (i.e. dart leg F meets the side seam line, indicated on the image by the red arrow).
• Trace around the block from dart leg F to the new shoulder design line A.
• You can lift your block up (see Figure 6).

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 6

• Draw lines from the Bust Point to the edges of the shape you traced from block to complete the pattern piece.  This is pattern piece #1.

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 7

• Put the block back on your paper, leaving enough room between the two pattern pieces for seam allowance. (The block in this image is slightly transparent to show there is room).
• Trace the block from design line point A to design line point B.
• Mark the Bust Point for this pattern piece.
• You can remove your block (see Figure 8).

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 8

• Complete the outline of this pattern piece by drawing lines from the Bust Point to the edges of the traced shape.

Instructions (Style-24) - Figure 9

This is the outcome of the dart manipulation.

If this was a production ready pattern, you would need to add seam allowance, label the pattern pieces, add cutting instructions and the grainline, note the pattern piece number and the total number of pattern pieces.