Bodice Front Style 41

Design shown on a croquis; design in 3D — Figure A: Style 41 shown on a croquis (3D version of the design)

The bodice of this garment has two asymmetric darts. The dart on the left runs from the Bust Point to the CF . The dart on the right runs from the Bust Point to the side seam on the opposite side of the full-block. This creates a Y shape style-line.

Example: Outcome

Final flat pattern after dart manipulation; design in 2D — Figure B: Style 41, final 2D flat pattern

Figure B shows the block being used on the left (1-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 41) on the right.

The focus of these instructions is covering the theory and practice of manipulating darts and the exercise finishes after the dart manipulation has been done. For production ready patterns you would need to take further steps to add seam allowance, pattern labels, pattern piece numbers, the grainline, etc.

Overview; how to approach this manipulation

This style will be created by

pivoting the full dart value into the mid-shoulder,
turning the block over and doing the same for the mirror half-block,
drawing the darts on the full block,
then using the cut-and-spread method to finish creating the pattern.

Instructions (Style-41) - Figure 1

You can use either the 1-Dart or 2-Dart Block for this style. I will be using the 1-Dart Block.

Draw a style-line from the mid-shoulder to the bust point, in preparation for pivoting the dart into the shoulder
Trace the half-block and move the waist dart into the shoulder
Make sure you mark the Bust Point.

*Moving the waist dart of the 1-Dart Block into the mid-shoulder is only indicated in the image, it is not covered in step-by-step detail. This is because this is basic dart manipulation which you should be able to do yourself by this stage. If you are unsure of how to do this, revise Styles 01 - 16.

Trace and pivot — Style 41, Instructions Figure 1

Instructions (Style-41) - Figure 2

Draw the dart legs to the Bust Point. You do not need to finish off the dart or create a dart point.

Traced block with 1 dart in shoulder — Style 41, Instructions Figure 2

Instructions (Style-41) - Figure 3

Turn the block over, lining up the CF, and pivot the waist dart into the shoulder.
Mark the Bust Point.
Mark the dart legs.

Block clipped over and traced again — Style 41, Instructions Figure 3

Instructions (Style-41) - Figure 4

Draw the dart legs as per the flat; a style-line from the right Bust Point to the opposite side seam (shown in orange), and a style-line from the left Bust Point to meet the first line at the CF (shown in green).