Two Piece (Shirt) Collar
The two-piece shirt collar is constructed of two different collars: the bottom part - the band - which is basically the Mandarin Collar with an extension to the value of the button placket, and the top part is the Turnover Collar, but with a different shape to the collar points. Follow the instructions in Mandarin/Turnover Collar pages to draft the two-piece collar, taking into account the minor modifications needed which are explained below. The modifications are:
- 1-inch extension to the Mandarin Collar
- Shape of the neck edge of the Turnover Collar
Modifications: Base
In the image below, you can see that both sides of the Mandarin collar meet on the Center Front line. The base of the Shirt collar (shaded in red) is the Mandarin collar, but needs some extra length for the button/button hole. All that is needed is that you add the value of the button placket extension to the measurement to the Total Neck Measurement in Figure 2.
Modifications: Collar
The Rollover Collar instructions ends up with a curved shape to the collar - this is easily changed. After following the instructions to Figure 7, go to the page which shows various Neckline edges to draw in the shape for the shirt collar. This is also something you can experiment with yourself. In the image below is the original turnover; it is wider than the Shirt Collar. The shirt collar has had the top edge shape changed.
In the instructions for the Rollover Collar, the example is created 3-inches wide. Remember that the shirt collar has a separate base, so you probably want to draft the top part less than 3-inches. For the top part of a two-piece collar 2 to 2.75-inches is common. That is up to you and the look you want.
Example: Two Piece Collar
Figure A shows the two-piece shirt collar, drafted as the Mandarin & Turnover with modifications. The Mandarin collar has a 1-inch extension (note the notch 1 inch from CF where the top collar will end). The shape of the collar edge of the Turnover has been changed. (The white is the original Turnover shape in my instructions, the orange is the redrawn shape for the shirt).
