Bodice Front Style 13

Design shown on a croquis; design in 3D — Figure A: Style 13 shown on a croquis (3D version of the design)

The bodice of this garment has two darts; one in the mid shoulder and one in the waist. Using our two-dart block, we will pivot the side seam into the mid-shoulder and leave the waist dart as is.

Example: Outcome

Figure B shows the starting point (the block) and the outcome (the final flat pattern after the dart manipulation).

The focus of these instructions is covering the theory and practice of manipulating darts and the exercise finishes after the dart manipulation has been done. For production ready patterns you would need to take further steps to add seam allowance, pattern labels, pattern piece numbers, the grainline, etc.

Final flat pattern after dart manipulation; design in 2D — Figure B: Style 13, final 2D flat pattern

Instructions (Style-13) - Figure 1

In these images I have used color for emphasis only. Use a hard pencil (4H-6H) when hand drafting patterns.

Draw the new design line on your block; from the mid-shoulder to the Bust Point (not the Dart Point!).

I have marked the points A, B, C & D on the block to assist in the instructions. You do not have to write these on your block. Note that A, B, C & D relate to the points where the dart leg meets the edge of the block, as shown by the arrow tips.

Draw new design line on the block — Style 13, Instructions Figure 1

Instructions (Style-13) - Figure 2

Holding the block firmly in place so that it doesn't move, trace around the block in a clockwise direction from point A (the new dart line) to point E (the first waist dart leg you will reach).

Trace part of the block — Style 13, Instructions Figure 2

Instructions (Style-13) - Figure 3

Mark the Bust Point and the Waist Dart Point on the paper underneath the block by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole and the Waist Dart hole.
Extend the dart leg line (E) past the edge of the block. To make sure the line true, use a ruler to line up the Bust Point and the dart leg on the edge of the block, and continue that line beyond the block onto the paper (shown by a red arrow in the image).

Mark dart leg — Style 13, Instructions Figure 3

Instructions (Style-13) - Figure 4

Holding the block down at the Bust Point, pivot the block anti-clockwise until the side seam dart is closed. (i.e. Dart leg D reaches the line you drew in the last step - shown by a red arrow in the image).

Rotate block to close the side seam dart — Style 13, Instructions Figure 4

Instructions (Style-13) - Figure 5

Making sure the block doesn't move, finish tracing the remainder of the block from D to A.

Continue tracing block — Style 13, Instructions Figure 5

Instructions (Style-13) - Figure 6

You can lift up the block now and put it aside. We will now see what we have on the paper underneath.

Draw the new dart legs from the Bust Point to points A1 and A2. (They should be the same length, but check to make sure).
Finish off the dart, remembering that the Dart Point stops some distance before the Bust Point.

If you are unsure about how to finish off the dart, see the pages on Finishing off Darts,which gives a few step-by-step examples.

Draw the dart legs in the new pattern — Style 13, Instructions Figure 6

Instructions (Style-13) - Figure 7

This is the final pattern after the dart manipulation is finished. (See Figure 8 for a final note).

If this was a production ready pattern, you would need to label the pattern piece, add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, note the pattern piece number and the total number of pattern pieces, etc.

Finished flat pattern. — Style 13, Instructions Figure 7

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