My Jasnah Dress Pattern
Jasnah Dress - Tropical Rayon (Viscose) Fabric
Jasnah Dress - Ababa Rayon (Viscose) Fabric
Fashion Flat
Description of the Jasnah Dress
- Semi-fitted bodice with Empire Line
- V-Neck with button placket to (Empire) waistline
- Width of shoulder strap approx 5cm | 2 inches
- Shoulder Princess line in bodice
- Bodice Back CB pleat
- Sleeve with extra ease in sleevehead and bicep, plus a sleeve flounce
- Rectangular skirt with a slight A-line; pleats placed to match the shoulder princess line in the bodice
- Pleat in the CB skirt
- Back neckline, sleeve flounce and hem finished off with (self) bias strips
Pattern Pieces (looking at the Fashion Flat)
There are 10 pattern pieces: 4 x Bodice, 2 x Sleeve, 2 x Skirt and 2 x internal facing pieces (bodice and skirt).
Note that this dress does not have buttons in the skirt, but in my Jasnah Dress VIDEO I have included instructions for adding buttons in the skirt. Some people may need butttons in the skirt if they want a semi-fitted bodice AND be able to get the dress on. (This depends on your Upper Bust/Bust proportions).
The image above shows the skirt facing piece even though the dresses shown do not use that button placket/facing.
Block/s Used
I always use my Sleeveless Bodice Block, despite the fact that this dress has sleeves. The ease added in the CB in the form of a pleat and the ease added to the sleeve (sleevehead and bicep) comprensates for the reduced ease in the Sleeveless Block. I don't use a Skirt Block for the skirt; I draft the skirt from scratch since it falls from the Empire Line.
Serenity Bodice Pattern Pieces
The dress is my Jasnah Dress, but the bodice, skirt and sleeve have different names. This is just my system. My Jasnah dress consists of my Serenity Bodice, my Tabitha Sleeve and Xera Skirt.
The bodice has 4 pattern pieces. Given my figure, I need significant contouring for my V-neckline. I put in a gape dart in the CF neckline and manipulated that gape dart into the Princess design line.
Serenity Bodice Pattern Pieces with seam allowance
Pattern Pieces Tabitha Sleeve
Drafting the Tabitha Sleeve
Steps for drafting the sleeve:
- Cutting and spreading to add 5.75cm | 2.25 inches ease in evently through the sleeve from Sleevehead to bicep line.
- Tapering the sleeve in at the underarm for 2.75 cm | 1 1/8 inch both underarm seamlines.
- Lowering the Cap Height, but checking sleevehead curve measurement against armhole measurements to make sure I have at least 6.25 cm | 2.25 inches ease in the sleevehead.
- Drawing a rectangle for the flounce, the same length as the bicep line, the width 6cm | 2 3/8 inch.
- Diving the rectangle into 8 even pieces.
- Cutting and spreading 2.75cm | 1 1/8 inch on one side to create the flounce curve as shown.
Tabitha Sleeve Pattern Pieces with Seam Allowance
Here are the finished Tabitha Sleeve pattern pieces with seam allowance.
Xera Skirt Pattern Pieces
The Xera Skirt is kind of rectangular with pleats added in for ease in the hip and room in the hem. It has a very slight A-line angle on the side seam.
Final Xera Skirt Pattern Pieces with seam allowance
Final Pattern Pieces Jasnah Dress
Below are all the pattern pieces for the Jasnah Dress (Serenity Bodice, Tabitha Sleeve, Xera Skirt).
As I always cut on one layer (never on the fold), I create whole pattern pieces and all pattern pieces to layout on my fabric. (i.e. I may draft the initial pattern to be 'cut on fold', but I then I create the whole piece before laying it on the fabric). These are all the pattern pieces I need to start cutting out.
I have included a second set of pattern pieces for the skirt if buttons are added. The pink skirt is the skirt pattern piece I used (no buttons, therefore no button placket/facing), and the white skirt pieces that have the button extention and facing pieces to be used with that.
In my Jasnah Dress VIDEO I run through drafting second skirt option.
Meterage
The fabric I used was 136cm (54.6 inches) wide and required 3 metres (3.28 yards) in length. This of course is for my size/figure.
I layout my pattern pieces in sections so that I can cut those sections out beforehand and only be managing smaller amounts of fabric on my cutting table. While there may be some fabric wastage, I find managing long lengths of fabric on a smaller cutting table far too stressful and bad for my back.
With this dress I may have been able to manage with less fabric (2.5 metres), but I sometimes prefer to have some extra bias strips for using as a contrast on other dresses.
Cost/Price (for Me!)
Even though both fabrics were very similar in weight (and both made in India), the Tropical Multi was more expensive.
The Orange dress cost approx $15 a metre (on special), so the fabric for the dress totalled about $45.
The Green dress cost $37.80 as ut was $12.60 per metre (on special).