Bodice Front Style 39

Figure A: Style 39 shown on a croquis (3D version of the design)

The bodice of this garment has two asymmetric darts. The dart on the left runs from the side seam to the opposite (right) bust point. The dart on the right runs from the armhole to the opposite (left) bust point.

Example: Outcome

Final flat pattern after dart manipulation; design in 2D — Figure B: Style 39, final 2D flat pattern

Figure B shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 39) on the right.

The focus of these instructions is covering the theory and practice of manipulating darts and the exercise finishes after the dart manipulation has been done. For production ready patterns you would need to take further steps to add seam allowance, pattern labels, pattern piece numbers, the grainline, etc.

Overview

This style will be created by

pivoting the full dart value into the side seam in the half-block
turning the block over and creating the other half of the block (i.e. the pattern with be the full-block, not a half-block)
drawing the asymmetric darts on the full-block
then using the cut-and-spread method to finish creating the pattern.

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 1

You can use either the 1-Dart or 2-Dart Block for this style.

Trace the half-block and pivot the waist dart into the side seam, making sure you mark the Bust Point.*

*The first step of pivoting the waist dart into the side seam dart is only indicated in the image, it is not covered in step-by-step detail. This is because this is basic dart manipulation which you should be able to do yourself by this stage. If you are unsure of how to do this, revise Styles 01 - 16.

Trace and pivot — Style 39, Instructions Figure 1

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 2

Draw the dart legs to the Bust Point. You do not need to finish off the dart or create a dart point.

Traced block — Style 39, Instructions Figure 2

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 3

Turn the block over, lining up the CF, and create the other half of the block in the same way.

Flip block and trace again — Style 39, Instructions Figure 3

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 4

Draw the dart legs of the right hand side of the pattern to the Bust Point. Again, you do not need to finish off the dart or create a dart point.

Close waist dart — Style 39, Instructions Figure 4

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 5

Draw the first dart line from the side seam point (A) to the opposite Bust Point (B).
Draw the second dart line from the mid-armhole point (C) to the opposite Bust Point (D).

Full pattern piece with dart values in side seam dart — Style 39, Instructions Figure 5

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 6

Cut the pattern shape out, including the dart values.

Design lines drawn on the pattern — Style 39, Instructions Figure 6

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 7

Cut from C at the armhole through Bust Point D. You will have two pattern pieces.

Cut along the top design line — Style 39, Instructions Figure 7

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 8

Pivot the left side seam dart closed (pivot on Bust Point D), and secure with sticky tape.

Close the left side seam dart — Style 39, Instructions Figure 8

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 9

Cut from point A on the side seam, through the Bust Point B. You will again have two separate pieces.

Close other side seam dart — Style 39, Instructions Figure 9

Instructions (Style-39) - Figure 10

Pivot the right side seam dart closed (pivot on Bust Point B), and secure with sticky tape.
You need to add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, etc.

Finished flat pattern — Style 39, Instructions Figure 10

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