Bodice Front Style 19

Figure A: Style 19 shown on a croquis (3D version of the design)

The bodice of this garment has an curved style-line (or design line) that goes from the mid-armhole of the half-block to the Bust Point and the BP to the waist. This particular style-line is called a Armhole Princess Line. (There is also a Shoulder Princess Line). Style-lines are one of the dart equivalents. Note: As there are instructions to create a Princess Line pattern in the Elements menu, these instructions will not cover the creation of the Princess Line style from beginning to end. It will be limited to the dart manipulation required to create this style. This style is very similar to Styles 11 & 16.

The difference between this style and Style 11 is:

it has no darts, as the darts are incorporated into the style-line
this style will have 2 pattern pieces rather than 1, as the style-line crosses from one edge to another through the Bust Point, and allows the bodice to be divided

The difference between this style and Style 16 is:

it has a curved line rather than angular design lines

Example: Outcome

Figure B: Style 19, final 2D flat pattern

Figure B shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 13) on the right.

The focus of these instructions is covering the theory and practice of manipulating darts and the exercise finishes after the dart manipulation has been done. For production ready patterns you would need to take further steps to add seam allowance, pattern labels, pattern piece numbers, the grainline, etc.

Instructions (Style-19) - Figure 1

Trace the block and mark dart legs, dart points and the bust point on the paper or cardboard underneath.

Instructions (Style-19) - Figure 2

Draw a straight line from the mid-armhole (marked A in the image) to the Bust Point.
At the half-way point of this straight line, measure up (at right angles) for 3/16-inch and mark a point.
Draw a curve from A to the Bust Point, touching the point just made.

Draw the design line curve — Style 19, Instructions Figure 2

Instructions (Style-19) - Figure 3

Draw lines from the Bust Point to dart legs B & C at the waist.

Draw the dart legs — Style 19, Instructions Figure 3

Instructions (Style-19) - Figure 4

Draw a line from the BP to the edge of the block through dart leg D
From the BP measure 0.75-inch and mark a point. This is the pivot point for closing the dart after we have cut the pattern pieces apart.

Mark the pivot point for closing the dart — Style 19, Instructions Figure 4

Instructions (Style-19) - Figure 5

I have placed some ease control notches in this figure, without going into the detail of where they are placed. You can find those details on the Elements > Princess Line Style page. The focus on this section is manipulating darts.

Cut the pattern from A to C and then from the BP to C.
On the side seam piece, cut from the BP to B.
You can throw away the middle waist dart piece (colored green for emphasis)

Cut along the design line — Style 19, Instructions Figure 5

Instructions (Style-19) - Figure 6

We will finish off closing the dart on the side seam pattern piece.

cut this pattern piece in two, along the top dart leg line through the new marked pivot point (i) in the image
with the two pattern pieces, pivot the dart closed at the new pivot point (ii) in the image
you will need to stick these pattern pieces together

You will get a little extra room in the Bust Point area. Now this pattern piece will need some reshaping as indicated with the dashed red line, but that is not covered here.

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