Bodice Front Style 20

The bodice of this garment has an angular style-line from the side seam to the bust point, and the bust point to the waist. If using the 2-Dart Bodice Block, no dart manipulation is required.  The current darts are the design lines, extended to the bust point.

Example: Outcome

Figure B shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 20) on the right.

The focus of these instructions is covering the theory and practice of manipulating darts and the exercise finishes after the dart manipulation has been done. For production ready patterns you would need to take further steps to add seam allowance, pattern labels, pattern piece numbers, the grainline, etc.

Instructions (Style-20) - Figure 1

In these images I have used color for emphasis only. Use a hard pencil (4H-6H) when hand drafting patterns.

Given that the darts do not need to be moved, and we are tracing the block (rather than cutting it up), there is no real need to draw the design line/s.

• Trace the block from dart leg D to dart leg A.
• Mark the Bust Point on the paper underneath
• Remove the block (see Figure 2)

Instructions (Style-20) - Figure 2

Lift up the block and complete this pattern piece:

• Draw lines from the dart legs to the Bust Point.

Instructions (Style-20) - Figure 3

• Put your block down on the paper, far away enough from Pattern Piece #1 so that you have room for seam allowance for both pieces.
• Trace the block from dart leg C to dart leg B.
• Mark the Bust Point by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole.
• Lift up the block (see Figure 4).

Instructions (Style-20) - Figure 4

• Draw the dart legs X and X to the Dart Point.
• You now have your two pattern pieces.

Instructions (Style-20) - Figure 5

These are your two final pattern pieces after the dart manipulation has been done.

If this was a production ready pattern, you would need to add seam allowance, label the pattern pieces, add cutting instructions and the grainline, note the pattern piece number and the total  number of pattern pieces.