Adding a Button Extension to a Pattern

When creating a pattern with buttons, you need to add an extension to both adjoining pattern pieces to allow the fabric to overlap.

Symmetrical vs. Asymmetrical Designs

In a symmetrical garment, the adjoining pieces have identical button stands.
In an asymmetrical garment, the button stands will be different.

This guide covers a basic symmetrical design, using the top shown in Image A as an example.

Understanding the Button Placement

In Image B (below), the buttons are positioned along the Center Front (CF) line of the pattern:

Half of each button sits within the bodice block itself.
The other half extends past the CF line and requires additional fabric beyond the edge of the bodice.

For the adjoining piece:

The buttonhole is mainly within the bodice block, but a small portion extends past the CF onto the button extension.
Both sides of the pattern must have extra fabric to accommodate the buttons and buttonholes.

Example: Adding a Button Extension

In Image C:

The Torso Block has been traced to create the top design shown in Image A.
On the left, buttons are placed along the Center Front line—you can see that half of each button extends past this line.
On the right, a button extension (shaded for emphasis) has been added.
The extension must be wide enough for half of the button, plus a little extra.

Determining the Width of the Button Extension

The extension should be at least the width of the button.
For small buttons (e.g., 0.38-inch), the extension should be 1.5 times the width of the button.

Creating the Button Extension: Step-by-Step

1. Determine the Button Stand Width

The width of the button stand is based on the diameter of the button.

2. Draw the Button Stand

Mark the button stand width beyond the CF line.

3. Mark the Button Placement

Place the first button approximately 5mm from the top.
Place another button at the Bust Point level.
Distribute the remaining buttons evenly along the CF.

4. Mark the Buttons and Buttonholes

Since this is a symmetrical design, all markings are made on one pattern piece, which will be labeled Cut Two or Cut Pair.

5. Add Seam Allowance and Facing

Seam allowance is required to sew the button stand and facing together.
Facing is typically added for a clean finish.
(Details on adding facings are covered separately—see the links at the bottom of this guide.)

Step-by-Step: Adding the Button Extension (Illustrated Steps)

Trace the block based on the design lines for your garment.
Calculate the button stand width:
Example: If the button diameter is 0.5-inch (1.5cm), the extension should also be 0.5-inch.
Draw the extension (marked in red).

Measure down from the CF neck point by the same amount as the button extension width (e.g., 0.88-inch) and mark the first button.
Mark a button at the bust level.
Evenly distribute the remaining buttons.

If using horizontal buttonholes, place them so that 1/8-inch extends into the button extension, with the rest within the bodice.

Important: Seam Allowance & Facing

This pattern still needs a facing and seam allowance added.
For instructions on adding facing, see:
All-in-One Facing (applies to this pattern with a button stand).
Grown-On Facing (applies to this pattern with a button stand).