Bodice Front Style 41The bodice of this garment has two asymmetric darts. The dart on the left runs from the Bust Point to the CF . The dart on the right runs from the Bust Point to the side seam on the opposite side of the full-block. This creates a Y shape style-line.
Example: OutcomeFigure 1 shows the block being used on the left (1-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 41) on the right.
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
NoteThis style will be created by
- pivoting the full dart value into the mid-shoulder,
- turning the block over and doing the same for the mirror half-block,
- drawing the darts on the full block,
- then using the cut-and-spread method to finish creating the pattern.
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 1You can use either the 1-Dart or 2-Dart Block for this style. I will be using the 1-Dart Block.
- Draw a style-line from the mid-shoulder to the bust point, in preparation for pivoting the dart into the shoulder
- Trace the half-block and move the waist dart into the shoulder
- Make sure you mark the Bust Point.
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 2
- Draw the dart legs to the Bust Point. You do not need to finish off the dart or create a dart point.
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 3
- Turn the block over, lining up the CF, and pivot the waist dart into the shoulder.
- Mark the Bust Point.
- Mark the dart legs.
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 4
- Draw the dart legs as per the flat; a style-line from the right Bust Point to the opposite side seam (shown in orange), and a style-line from the left Bust Point to meet the first line at the CF (shown in green).
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 5
- Cut the pattern out from the paper, including the dart values.
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 6
- Cut the pattern from side seam dart point (A) to the right Bust Point (B). You will have two pattern pieces.
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 7
- Pivot the right shoulder dart closed. Secure with sticky tape.
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 8
- Cut along the second dart line, from C to D (shown by the green line).
Instructions (Style-41) – Figure 9
- Pivot the left shoulder dart closed (pivot on Bust Point D), and secure with sticky tape.
- You will need to add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, etc.