Bodice Front Style 40The bodice of this garment has two asymmetric darts. The dart on the left runs from the Bust Point to the waist . The dart on the right runs from the Bust Point to the same waist point as the first dart. This creates an asymmetric V-shape.
Example: OutcomeFigure 1 shows the block being used on the left (1-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 40) on the right.
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
NoteThis style will be created by
- pivoting the full dart value into the waist dart style-line on the left half-block.
- turning the block over and tracing the other half-block (creating a full-block pattern).
- then using the cut-and-spread method to finish creating the pattern.
Instructions (Style-40) – Figure 1You can use either the 1-Dart or 2-Dart Block for this style. I will be using the 1-Dart Block.
- Draw the new style-line according to the image flat.
- Trace the half-block and move the waist dart into the new style-line.*
- Make sure you mark the Bust Point.
Instructions (Style-40) – Figure 2
- Draw the dart legs to the Bust Point. You do not need to finish off the dart or create a dart point.
Instructions (Style-40) – Figure 3
- Turn the block over, lining up the CF, and trace the block as is (i.e. no pivoting the dart).
- Mark the Bust Point.
- Mark the dart legs.
Instructions (Style-40) – Figure 4
- Draw the dart legs of the right hand side of the pattern to the Bust Point. Again, you do not need to finish off the dart or create a dart point.
Instructions (Style-40) – Figure 5
- Draw the second dart, as per the design flat, from waist point (A) to Bust Point (B).
Instructions (Style-40) – Figure 6
- Cut the pattern shape out, including the dart values.
Instructions (Style-40) – Figure 7
- Cut from A at the waist through Bust Point B. You will have two pattern pieces.
Instructions (Style-40) – Figure 8
- Pivot the left side seam dart closed (pivot on Bust Point D), and secure with sticky tape.
- You will need to add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, etc.