Bodice Front Style 39

The bodice of this garment has two asymmetric darts. The dart on the left runs from the side seam to the opposite (right) bust point.  The dart on the right runs from the armhole to the opposite (left) bust point.

Example: Outcome

Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 39) on the right.

Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.

Note

This style will be created by

• pivoting the full dart value into the side seam in the half-block
• turning the block over and creating the other half of the block (i.e. the pattern with be the full-block, not a half-block)
• drawing the asymmetric darts on the full-block
• then using the cut-and-spread method to finish creating the pattern.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 1

You can use either the 1-Dart or 2-Dart Block for this style.

• Trace the half-block and pivot the waist dart into the side seam, making sure you mark the Bust Point.*

*The first step of pivoting the waist dart into the side seam dart is only indicated in the image, it is not covered in step-by-step detail.  This is because this is basic dart manipulation which you should be able to do yourself by this stage. If you are unsure of how to do this, revise Styles 01 – 16.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 2

• Draw the dart legs to the Bust Point.  You do not need to finish off the dart or create a dart point.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 3

• Turn the block over, lining up the CF, and create the other half of the block in the same way.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 4

• Draw the dart legs of the right hand side of the pattern to the Bust Point.  Again, you do not need to finish off the dart or create a dart point.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 5

• Draw the first dart line from the side seam point (A) to the opposite Bust Point (B).
• Draw the second dart line from the mid-armhole point (C) to the opposite Bust Point (D).

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 6

• Cut the pattern shape out, including the dart values.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 7

• Cut from C at the armhole through Bust Point D.   You will have two pattern pieces.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 8

• Pivot the left side seam dart closed (pivot on Bust Point D), and secure with sticky tape.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 9

• Cut from point A on the side seam, through the Bust Point B.   You will again have two separate pieces.

Instructions (Style-39) – Figure 10

• Pivot the right side seam dart closed (pivot on Bust Point B), and secure with sticky tape.
• You need to add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, etc.