Bodice Front Style 26

The bodice of this garment has style line that runs, on the half-block, from the CF neck, to the Bust Point, then from the BP to the side seam waist.

There are no darts; the darts have been incorporated into the style-line.

This style will have 2 pattern pieces for the front bodice.

Example: Outcome

Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 26) on the right.

Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 1

Note that in the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so you can see more easily what I am referring to.  You will be using a hard (4H-6H) pencil.

• Draw the new design line on your block; from the CF Neck (point A) to the Bust Point
• Draw a line from Bust Point to the waist side seam (point B).

I have marked the points A, B, C, D, E & F on the block to assist in the instructions.  You do not have to write these on your block.  Note that A, B, C, D, E & F relate to the points where the dart leg meets the edge of the block, as shown by the arrow tips.

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 2

• Mark the Bust Point by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole.
• Extend the dart leg line F (side seam) out past the block. To make sure the line true, use a ruler to line up the Bust Point and the dart leg on the edge of the block, and continue that line beyond the block onto the paper (drawn as a red arrow in the image).

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 3

• Trace the block from the style line point A to dart leg F.
• Trace the block from point B, the new waist design line, to dart leg C.

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 4

• Holding the block down at the Bust Point so it doesn’t slip or slide, pivot the block in a clockwise direction until the side seam dart is closed. (i.e. dart leg E meets the extended line shown in the image as a red arrow).
• Trace around the block from dart leg E in the side seam to dart leg D in the waist.
• You can lift up your block (you should have marked the Bust Point in a previous step) – see Figure 5.

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 5

• Draw lines from the Bust Point to the edges of the shape you traced from block to complete the pattern piece.  This is pattern piece #1.

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 6

• Put the block down again, some distance away from the first pattern piece, so there will be enough room on the paper to add seam allowance to each pattern piece.
• Mark the Bust Point for this pattern piece by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole.
• Extend the dart leg line C out past the block. To make sure the line true, use a ruler to line up the Bust Point and the dart leg on the edge of the block, and continue that line beyond the block onto the paper (indicated by a red arrow in the image).
• Trace the block from the style-line point A to the dart leg C.

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 7

• Holding down the block at the Bust Point with your pencil, pivot the block in an anti-clockwise direction until the waist dart is closed. (i.e. dart leg D reaches the line at the waist, shown in the image as a red arrow).
• Trace the block from dart leg D to style line point B.
• You can lift up the block (see Figure 8).

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 8

• Complete the outline of this pattern piece by drawing lines from the Bust Point to the edges of the traced shape.

Instructions (Style-26) – Figure 9

• Of course, if this was a pattern, you would need to mark the grainline on each pattern piece, label them, give cutting instructions, add notches where necessary, and add seam allowance. (Not all shown in this image).