Manipulating Darts - Bodice Front
Bodice Front Style 23
The bodice of this garment has a rectangular panel in the CF, from the BPs down to the waist. The design line on the half-block runs from the waist up to the Bust Point, then then horizontally from the BP to the Center Front.
There are no darts; the darts have been incorporated into the style-line.
This style will have 2 pattern pieces for the front bodice.
Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 23) on the right. (If you have a 1-Dart Block it would be much simpler, no pivoting would be necessary).
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
Instructions (Style-23) – Figure 1
Note that in the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so you can see more easily what I am referring to. You will be using a hard (4H-6H) pencil.
- Draw the new design line on your block; from the Bust Point to the CF.
I have marked the points A, B, C, D & E on the block to assist in the instructions. You do not have to write these on your block. Note that A, B, C, D & E relate to the points where the dart leg meets the edge of the block, as shown by the arrow tips.
Instructions (Style-23) – Figure 2
- Mark the Bust Point by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole.
- Extend the dart leg line (D) out past the block. To make sure the line true, use a ruler to line up the Bust Point and the dart leg on the edge of the block, and continue that line beyond the block onto the paper (the red arrow in the image).
Instructions (Style-23) – Figure 3
- Holding the block firmly in place so that it doesn’t move, trace around the block from the dart leg D to dart leg C.
Instructions (Style-23) – Figure 4
- Holding the block down at the Bust Point, pivot the block anti-clockwise until the side seam dart is closed. (Dart leg E reaches the extended line you drew in the last step – the red arrow in the image).
- You can lift up the block (see Figure 5).
Instructions (Style-23) – Figure 5
- Draw lines from the Bust Point to the edges of the traced block. This is pattern piece #1.
Instructions (Style-23) – Figure 6
We now need to make pattern piece #2; the rectangular front panel.
- Put the block back on the paper, making sure you leave enough room between the pieces for adding seam allowance later. (I have made the block slightly see-through so you can see there is enough space between the pieces).
- Trace around the block from design line A to dart leg B.
- Mark the Bust Point for this pattern piece by putting your pencil in the BP hole and marking the paper underneath.
- You can lift up the block (see Figure 7).
Instructions (Style-23) – Figure 7
- Draw lines from the BP to the edges of the traced block to complete pattern piece #2.
Instructions (Style-23) – Figure 8
- Of course, if this was a pattern, you would need to mark the grainline on each pattern piece, label them, give cutting instructions, add notches where necessary, and add seam allowance. (Not all shown in this image).