Manipulating Darts - Bodice Front
Bodice Front Style 20
The bodice of this garment has an angular style-line from the side seam to the bust point, and the bust point to the waist.
If using the 2-Dart Bodice Block, no dart manipulation is required. The current darts are the design lines, extended to the bust point.
Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 20) on the right.
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
Instructions (Style-20) – Figure 1
Note that in the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so it can be seen more easily, particularly in the current step. You will be using a hard (4H-6H pencil).
Given that the darts do not need to be moved, and we are tracing the block (rather than cutting it up), there is no real need to draw the design line/s.
- Trace the block from dart leg D to dart leg A.
- Mark the Bust Point on the paper underneath
- Remove the block (see Figure 2)
Instructions (Style-20) – Figure 2
Lift up the block and complete this pattern piece:
- Draw lines from the dart legs to the Bust Point.
Instructions (Style-20) – Figure 3
- Put your block down on the paper, far away enough from Pattern Piece #1 so that you have room for seam allowance for both pieces.
- Trace the block from dart leg C to dart leg B.
- Mark the Bust Point by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole.
- Lift up the block (see Figure 4).
Instructions (Style-20) – Figure 4
- Draw the dart legs X and X to the Dart Point.
- You now have your two pattern pieces.
Instructions (Style-20) – Figure 5
- These are your two final pattern pieces. Of course, if this was a pattern, you would need to add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, etc.