Bodice Front Style 14

The bodice of this garment has two darts; one in the mid neckline and one in the waist. Using our two-dart block, we will pivot the side seam into the mid-neck and leave the waist dart as is.

Example: Outcome

Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 14) on the right.

Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.

Instructions (Style-14) – Figure 1

Note that in the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so it can be seen more easily, particularly in the current step.  You will be using a hard (4H-6H pencil).

• Draw the new design line on your block; from the mid-neck to the Bust Point (not the Dart Point!).

Instructions (Style-14) – Figure 2

• Holding the block firmly in place so that it doesn’t move, trace around the block in a clockwise direction from the design line you drew (marked A on the image) to the first side seam dart leg (marked E).

Instructions (Style-14) – Figure 3

• Mark the Bust Point and the Waist Dart point by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole and the Waist Dart hole.
• Extend the dart leg line (E) out past the block. To make sure the line true, use a ruler to line up the Bust Point and the dart leg on the edge of the block, and continue that line beyond the block onto the paper (the red line shown in the image).

Instructions (Style-14) – Figure 4

• Holding the block down at the Bust Point, pivot the block anti-clockwise until the side seam dart is closed. (Dart leg D reaches the extended line you drew in the last step – the red line).

Instructions (Style-14) – Figure 5

• Making sure the block doesn’t move, finish tracing the remainder of the block from D to A.

Instructions (Style-14) – Figure 6

• Draw the new dart legs from the Bust Point to points A1 and A1.  (They should be the same length, but check to make sure).
• Finish off the dart, remembering that the Dart Point stops some distance before the Bust Point.

If you are unsure about how to finish off the dart, see the pages on Finishing off Darts, which gives a few step-by-step examples.

Instructions (Style-14) – Figure 7

• Of course, if this was a pattern, you would need to add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, label the pattern piece, etc.