Manipulating Darts - Bodice Front
Bodice Front Style 13
The bodice of this garment has two darts; one in the mid shoulder and one in the waist.
Using our two-dart block, we will pivot the side seam into the mid-shoulder and leave the waist dart as is.
Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 13) on the right.
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
Instructions (Style-13) – Figure 1
In the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so you can see more easily what I am referring to. You will be using a hard (4H-6H) pencil.
- Draw the new design line on your block; from the mid-shoulder to the Bust Point (not the Dart Point!).
I have marked the points A, B, C & D on the block to assist in the instructions. You do not have to write these on your block. Note that A, B, C & D relate to the points where the dart leg meets the edge of the block, as shown by the arrow tips.
Instructions (Style-13) – Figure 2
- Holding the block firmly in place so that it doesn’t move, trace around the block in a clockwise direction from point A (the new dart line) to point E (the first waist dart leg you will reach).
Instructions (Style-13) – Figure 3
- Mark the Bust Point and the Waist Dart Point on the paper underneath the block by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole and the Waist Dart hole.
- Extend the dart leg line (E) past the edge of the block. To make sure the line true, use a ruler to line up the Bust Point and the dart leg on the edge of the block, and continue that line beyond the block onto the paper (shown by a red arrow in the image).
Instructions (Style-13) – Figure 4
- Holding the block down at the Bust Point, pivot the block anti-clockwise until the side seam dart is closed. (i.e. Dart leg D reaches the line you drew in the last step – shown by a red arrow in the image).
Instructions (Style-13) – Figure 5
- Making sure the block doesn’t move, finish tracing the remainder of the block from D to A.
Instructions (Style-13) – Figure 6
You can lift up the block now and put it aside. We will now see what we have on the paper underneath.
- Draw the new dart legs from the Bust Point to points A1 and A2. (They should be the same length, but check to make sure).
- Finish off the dart, remembering that the Dart Point stops some distance before the Bust Point.
Instructions (Style-13) – Figure 7
- Of course, if this was a pattern, you would need to label the pattern piece, add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, note the pattern piece number and the total number of pattern pieces, etc.