Manipulating Darts - Bodice Front
Bodice Front Style 12
The bodice of this garment has two darts; one at the shoulder tip and one in the waist.
Using our two-dart block, we will pivot the side seam into the shoulder and leave the waist dart as is.
Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left (2-Dart Block), and the pattern that will be created (Style 12) on the right.
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
Instructions (Style-12) – Figure 1
In the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so you can see more easily what I am referring to. You will be using a hard (4H-6H) pencil.
- Draw the new design line on your block; from the shoulder tip to the Bust Point (not the Dart Point!).
I have marked the points A, B, C & D on the block to assist in the instructions. You do not have to write these on your block. Note that A, B, C & D relate to the points where the dart leg meets the edge of the block, as shown by the arrow tips.
Instructions (Style-12) – Figure 2
- Holding the block firmly in place so that it doesn’t move, trace around the block in a clockwise direction from point A (the new dart line) to point E (the first side seam dart leg you reach).
Instructions (Style-12) – Figure 3
- Mark the Bust Point and the Dart Point on the paper underneath the block by putting your pencil tip through the BP hole and the Waist Dart Point hole.
- Extend the side seam dart leg line (E) past the edge of the block. To make sure the line true, use a ruler to line up the Bust Point and the dart leg on the edge of the block, and continue that line beyond the block onto the paper (shown by a red arrow in the image).
Instructions (Style-12) – Figure 4
- Holding the block down at the Bust Point, pivot the block anti-clockwise until the side seam dart is closed. (i.e. Dart leg D reaches the line you drew in the last step -the red arrow in the image).
Instructions (Style-12) – Figure 5
- Making sure the block doesn’t move, finish tracing the remainder of the block from D to A.
Instructions (Style-12) – Figure 6
You can lift up the block now and put it aside. We will now see what we have on the paper underneath.
- Draw the new dart legs from the Bust Point to points A1 and A2. (They should be the same length, but check to make sure).
- Finish off the dart, remembering that the Dart Point stops some distance before the Bust Point.
If you are unsure about how to finish off the dart, see the pages on Finishing off Darts, which gives a few step-by-step examples.
Instructions (Style-12) – Figure 7
- Of course, if this was a pattern, you would need to label the pattern piece, add seam allowance, cutting instructions, grainline, note the pattern piece number and the total number of pattern pieces, etc.