Manipulating Darts - Bodice Back
Style 03 (Back)
The bodice of this garment has one dart in the waist, and a yoke design line.
Using the Bodice Block Back to create this style, the shoulder dart in the block is transferred into the yoke styleline.
Figure 1 shows the block being used on the left, and the pattern that will be created (Back Style 03) on the right.
Note: The actual pattern would need seam allowance or cutting instructions added; this has not been done here we are just covering the theory of manipulating darts.
Instructions (Back Style-03) – Figure 1
In the instructions, color is used for emphasis, so you can see more easily what I am referring to. You will be using a hard (4H-6H) pencil.
Holding the block firmly in place so it doesn’t move:
- trace the outline of the block onto paper
- mark the dart legs
- mark the dart points
You can lift your block up and put it aside.
Instructions (Back Style-03) – Figure 2
- draw your dart legs (shown in red)
- measure down from the CB neck point for a quarter of the CB measurement, then draw a line at right angles across the block. This is the shoulder blade level.
Instructions (Back Style-03) – Figure 3
- Cut the block shape out from the paper.
- Cut along the shoulder blade line; you will have two pieces.
Instructions (Style-03) – Figure 4
- Draw a line along dart leg A to meet the shoulder line (point C).
- Cut along the A-C line. This top piece will now be separated into two pieces.
Instructions (Style-03) – Figure 5
- Pivot the shoulder dart closed (point C is the pivot point).
- secure the two pieces with sticky tape.
If this was a pattern, you would also need to add seam allowance, label, mark the grainline, etc.