The Need for Contouring (an Example)
This follows on from Contouring (Definition).
This example (the body form is a replica of my body) is to show that how that using the Bodice Block (made for use with Sleeves) to make a garment with cutaway arms and/or low neckline will result in gaping. As mentioned before, this will be a problem to a greater or lesser degree depending on your individual body.
In Figure 1, the white tape shows how the Bodice Block will fall from the neck, over the bust, down to the waist. (It would sit out a bit further from the waist than in the image).
This would be how a garment made with the Bodice Block, with a high neckline and sleeves, would sit on my body.
In Figure 2, the photo is taken on an angle that shows how much space there in between the tape (the fabric) and the body.
While this space is not an issue for a garment with a high neckline and sleeves, if a garment with a low neckline or cutaway arms was made with this block (and with no further adjustments), the result would be a lot of gaping, i.e. the garment would be loose in the neckline and armhole and therefore not fit well. (And also the armhole, but that is not so evident in this photo).
In order to create a garment with a low neckline, it is necessary to make some contouring adjustments.
Continued in Contour Markings (Gape Darts).
Your notes say that gaping occurs when lowering the neckline. I found that it happend when I raised the neckline of a v-neck. Is that normal? Can it be remedied by making the contour adjustment?
So sorry it has taken me to long to get around to answering, but I didn’t realise the comment was here. My Comments System hasn’t been sending me emails to let me know that people have left comments….
Generally if there is gaping, then a dart is how you remove the gape. However, I am a bit puzzled by the fact you are saying the garment fits with a lower v-neck, then gapes when you raise the neckline. It doesn’t quite make sense to me, but then maybe there’s something else going on…
Given that you posted this comment 2 weeks ago, maybe you tried it already? If so, how did it go?
If you didn’t try it, or if you tried it and it didn’t work (created problems elsewhere), any way you can upload an image, so I can see what is going on?
I don’t speak english but I need to tell you that I’ve been looking for this information for a lot of months and you are the only one that gave me an answer to my question. I don’t know who you are and I didn’t use your information yet, but I want to say a big “thank you”. Antonella
You are welcome. I know how puzzling I found it when I first tried to make a low cut and sleeveless garment and it ended up unwearable! Good luck with your project.