Standard Contouring Amounts

This follows on from Sleeveless Block.

The standard contouring amounts (i.e. for the Standard Figure) are as shown in the images below, for the front and the back.

Bodice Front

Front Figure 1:  Reduction in block width

The reduction is 0.5-inch.

When creating the Bodice Block, the amount of ease added to the body measurement, at the underarm level, was 5 inches.  This is ideal for garments with sleeves.  This reduction of  0.5-inch on the half-blocks front and back will reduce the total amount of ease to 3 inches for the fitted sleeveless garment.  (Half inch x 2 front, half inch x 2 back = 2 inches).

Front Figure 2:  Reduction in armhole ease

The reduction is 0.25-inch.

The curve of the armhole is closer to the body without a sleeve.  When this excess amount is removed it reduces the armhole measurement and also raises the armhole.

Front Figure 3:  Cutaway armhole

Reduction of 0.5-inch at bust circle, tapering to zero at both the shoulder and the Bust Point.

A cutaway arm will cause gaping between the shoulder and the bust mound.  As this line will be on the bias stretch, the gape dart amount is more than the actual gape.

Front Figure 4: Shoulder line shaping

Reduction of 0.13-inch at mid-shoulder.

The shoulder usually dips a little in the middle.  (See the Examples for an application of using this guideline).

Front Figure 5:  Low neckline guide

Reduction of 0.25-inch at the bust circle, tapering to zero at both the neckline and the Bust Point.

The lower the neckline, the more the gape.  Note that when the neckline dips to near or below the Bust Point, contouring line No.6. applies in addition to this one.

Front Figure 6:  Low neckline

Very near and below the Bust Point; 0.75 inch total at Centre Front.

Necklines that dip to the Bust Poin and below need even more contouring.

Front Figure 7: Empire Line Guides

The dart width increases 0.75-inch at the bust circle.

The Empire Line style ends beneath the bust, therefore the dart ends at the bust circle rather than extending to the waist. The dart needs to be wider for the garment to return to the body under the bust.   See Figure 7b if you do not understand this.

Front Figure 7b: The Empire Line return

The Empire Line returns to the body under the bust, rather than falling from the bust to the waist.

Bodice Back

Back Figure 1: Reduction in block width

The reduction is 0.5-inch.

When creating the Bodice Block, the amount of ease added to the body measurement, at the underarm level, was 6 inches.  This is ideal for garments with sleeves.  This reduction of 0.5-inch on the half-blocks front and back will the total amount of ease to 4 inches for the fitted sleeveless garment.

Back Figure 2: Shoulder line shaping

Reduction of 0.13-inch at mid-shoulder.

The shoulder usually dips a little in the middle.  (See the Examples for an application of using this guideline).

Back Figure 3:  Increase height of waist dart

Increase the height of the waist dart by extending the dart point up to the Across Back line.

The placement of the Across-Back line is 1/4 of the CB measurement – down from the CB neck point.  This line is drawn at right angles to the CB line.

Back Figure 4:  Increase of dart

The dart, which was previously at the waist level, is now under the bust. The width increases 0.75-inch at Empire Line level.

The placement of the Empire Line is another matter – it is based on the Bodice Front Empire Line.  See the page  Empire Line Styling in the Elements Menu.

Continued in Individual Contouring.