Top Pattern #1C

The information on Top 01a that used to be on a number of pages are now consolidated in this one page. This first section contains general information. Click on the link to go directly to the other sections:

Description, Flats, Blocks Used & Plan Of Action
Step-by-Step Instructions

See the Top-001 Series page for an overview of the series (i.e. how the tops are different).

General Information

Third Scale Blocks for Practice

You can follow along and practice patternmaking using free Third Scale Blocks, or you can draft the pattern full size for yourself.

Making Your Own Custom Block

If you do not have a custom block, you can find video instructions for how to draft them here: Drafting Blocks . How to take measurements are covered in the videos. You can buy the accompanying booklet from my Books Ko-Fi Shop.

Buying (Standard) Blocks

If you would prefer to buy a set of Standard Blocks or Slopers, you can buy them from my Blocks Ko-Fi Shop Bodice Blocks are $12, Skirt Blocks are $5, Pants Blocks $8 and a Complete Set costs $20.00. These blocks come in sizes 6 – 22, and you can find a comprehensive list of the measurements for each size in the Measurements for Downloadable Blocks page. Important! I recommend you buy the standard blocks ONLY if your measurements match the measurements given CLOSELY. I do not give assistance on adjusting blocks. If you have a non-standard body I recommend you draft your own block with your own measurements.

My Ko-Fi Shops

I have 2 Ko-Fi shops; from one I sell my Downloadable PDF Booklets, and from the other I sell the Standard Blocks.

Description: Top #1c

Sleeveless top
Two (parallel) darts in waist (for the half block). (This pattern differs from Top-001b in that the side seam dart of 01b has been moved to the waist).
Back waist darts
Center Front button placket
Neckline and armholes finished with bias binding

Flat & Details

Bodice front has two waist darts (parallel from bust point to waist) (half-block)
Bodice back has one waist dart (half-block)
Front neckline depth 275-in (7cm).
Back has a boat neckline with a depth of 1.75-in (4.5cm).
Button placket with 5 buttons
Hem at hip-line has 4.75 inches (12cm) ease added (to the block),
Neckline and armholes finished with bias binding (self fabric)

Plan of Action

As I am using the pattern from Top-001B to make Top-001C there is not really much of a plan of action required. Read the Plan of Action for Top 001-B.

How many pattern pieces?

Most of this information is the same as for Top-001B; the only difference between these two tops is that this one has two darts in the waist (for the half block) instead of one in the side seam and one in the waist.

This top has only three pattern pieces; the Bodice Front, Bodice Back, and the interfacing for the Button Placket. The button placket itself is an extension of the Bodice Front. No pattern piece is created for the bias tape; create lengths of bias and cut it to match the length of the armholes and neckline. (i.e. It is very fiddly to create a pattern piece from paper and pin it to the fabric (especially with soft drapey fabrics); it is easier to draw lines on the fabric with a chalk, cut those pieces out, then sew them together and/or cut them to the length required).

Bodice Front
Bodice Back
Placket interfacing

Outcome & notes

This shows the original concept drawing and a photo of me wearing the garment. Scroll down for some notes about how happy I am with this particular pattern, whether I would use it again, etc.

Notes

The top is comfortable and fits well, however…. Despite having 2 darts in the waist, I can pull it over my head without undoing the buttons. Also the waist shaping is starting to be a bit distorted.
Given the point above, , if I made it again I could make it without button plackets and cut the front on the fold.
The difference between the option in the dot point above and Top-001A, is that in Top A I have left the darts unsewn and added elastic.
For a similar top I would just use the Pattern for Top-001A and add in the darts. (It would be slightly different as that one has a dart in the side seam).
When I want casual sleeveless summer tops, I would probably just use Pattern Top-001A and add in the darts (no elastic), and be able to pull them over my head.

Summary: I wouldn’t make this top again, but I will make Top-001A and sew in the side seam and waist darts (and not put in the elastic). I think this will be a pattern staple in my wardrobe for summer; easy to make (two pieces of fabric with some shaping) and uses minimum fabric (no button placket). I will eventually make this with the piece of lightweight, soft fabric that I purchased in an op-shop for $3, shown below:

Credit for the Stock Photo I used to create the Vector Croquis on this page:

Andersonrise from 123RF Stock Photos

Step-by-Step Instructions: Top #1c

This top has only 3 pattern pieces:

Bodice Front
Bodice Back
Button Placket Interfacing

The Bodice Back and the Interfacing pieces will remain the same. Only the Bodice Front will be different.

Instructions Top 001c – Figure 1

I am actually going to start with the finished Top 01B and do some dart manipulation – move the side seam dart into the waist and create 2 waist darts. (This could be 3 waist darts).

The reason for creating 3 darts in the waist is because I will have so much fullness in the waist that using only 1 dart will not be possible.

Instructions Top 001c – Figure 2

Bodice Front – Draw a cutting line to close the seam dart

Draw a line from the Bust Point to the bottom side seam dart leg where it at the stitching line.
Draw a second line from the bust point straight down to the waist hem. This line should pass through the center of the waist dart.

Note: The lines I am drawing on my blocks are thick and red for the purposes of illustration. You should draw your lines in pencil; you can then erase them, or leave them there for reference.

Instructions Top 001c – Figure 3

Bodice Front – Closing the Side-Seam Dart

Cut along the two lines drawn, up to the dart point but leaving a little hinge
Pivot the hinged piece and close the side seam dart
The waist dart will open.

Notice that the amount opened in the waist is far bigger for me than for the standard figure (the size 14 block to the right).

Instructions Top 001c – Figure 4

Draw in waist darts

I have shown four different options of drawing in the waist darts; these will result in different shaping.
I have distributed the amount opened into 2 darts.
Look at the difference in the size of the waist darts for me compared to the Standard Size 14. This is because I had a much larger side seam dart (due to a larger bust cup and squarer shoulders).

Final Pattern Pieces

And here are the final pattern pieces