(Drafting) Top Pattern #1C: Step-by-Step Instructions

This top has only 3 pattern pieces:

  1. Bodice Front
  2. Bodice Back
  3. Button Placket Interfacing

The Bodice Back and the Interfacing pieces will remain the same.  Only the Bodice Front will be different.

Instructions Top 001c – Figure 1

I am actually going to start with the finished Top 01B and do some dart manipulation – move the side seam dart into the waist and create 2 waist darts.  (This could be 3 waist darts).

The reason for creating 3 darts in the waist is because I will have so much fullness in the waist that using only 1 dart will not be possible.

Instructions Top 001c – Figure 2

Bodice Front – Draw a cutting line to close the seam dart

  • Draw a line from the Bust Point to the bottom side seam dart leg where it at the stitching line.
  • Draw a second line from the bust point straight down to the waist hem.  This line should pass through the center of the waist dart.

Note: The lines I am drawing on my blocks are thick and red for the purposes of illustration.  You should draw your lines in pencil; you can then erase them, or leave them there for reference.

Instructions Top 001c – Figure 3

Bodice Front – Closing the Side-Seam Dart

  • Cut along the two lines drawn, up to the dart point but leaving a little hinge
  • Pivot the hinged piece and close the side seam dart
  • The waist dart will open.

Notice that the amount opened in the waist is far bigger for me than for the standard figure (the size 14 block to the right).

Instructions Top 001c – Figure 4

Draw in waist darts

  • I have shown four different options of drawing in the waist darts; these will result in different shaping.
  • I have distributed the amount opened into 2 darts.
  • Look at the difference in the size of the waist darts for me compared to the Standard Size 14.  This is because I had a much larger side seam dart (due to a larger bust cup and squarer shoulders).

Final Pattern Pieces

And here are the final pattern pieces

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