Patterns

(Drafting) Top Pattern #1C: Information

The information covering how to make this sewing pattern is contained on a number of pages – see the menu – these pages these follow on from in each in the menu order. The page you are currently on contains just the description of the garment.

See the Top-001 Series page for an overview of the series (i.e. how the tops are different).

You can follow along and practice patternmaking using free Third Scale Blocks, or you can draft the pattern full size for yourself.

If you do not have a custom block, you can find instructions for how to draft them here: Drafting Blocks.   How to take measurements are covered on these pages: Measuring for Blocks.

If you would prefer to buy a set of Standard Blocks or Slopers, you can buy them on the Purchasing Blocks pages.  Bodice Blocks are $12, Skirt Blocks are $5, Pants Blocks $8 and a Complete Set costs $20.00.  These blocks come in sizes 6 – 22, and you can find a comprehensive list of the measurements for each size in the Measurements for Downloadable Blocks page.

Description

  • Sleeveless top
  • Two (parallel) darts in waist (for the half block).  (This pattern differs from Top-001b in that the side seam dart of 01b has been moved to the waist).
  • Back waist darts
  • Center Front button placket
  • Neckline and armholes finished with bias binding

Flat & Details

  • Bodice front has two waist darts (parallel from bust point to waist) (half-block)
  • Bodice back has one waist dart (half-block)
  • Front neckline depth 275-in (7cm).
  • Back has a boat neckline with a depth of 1.75-in (4.5cm).
  • Button placket with 5 buttons
  • Hem at hip-line has 4.75 inches (12cm) ease added (to the block),
  • Neckline and armholes finished with bias binding (self fabric)

Plan of Action

As I am using the pattern from Top-001B to make Top-001C there is not really much of a plan of action required.  Read the Plan of Action for Top 001-B.

How many pattern pieces?

Most of this information is the same as for Top-001B; the only difference between these two tops is that this one has two darts in the waist (for the half block) instead of one in the side seam and one in the waist.

This top has only three pattern pieces; the Bodice Front, Bodice Back, and the interfacing for the Button Placket. The button placket itself is an extension of the Bodice Front.   No pattern piece is created for the bias tape; create lengths of bias and cut it to match the length of the armholes and neckline. (i.e. It is very fiddly to create a pattern piece from paper and pin it to the fabric (especially with soft drapey fabrics); it is easier to draw lines on the fabric with a chalk, cut those pieces out, then sew them together and/or cut them to the length required).

  1. Bodice Front
  2. Bodice Back
  3. Placket interfacing

Outcome & notes

This shows the original concept drawing and a photo of me wearing the garment.  Scroll down for some notes about how happy I am with this particular pattern, whether I would use it again, etc.

Notes

  • The top is comfortable and fits well, however….  Despite having 2 darts in the waist, I can pull it over my head without undoing the buttons.  Also the waist shaping is starting to be a bit distorted.
  • Given the point above, , if I made it again I could make it without button plackets and cut the front on the fold.
  • The difference between the option in the dot point above and Top-001A,  is that in Top A I have left the darts unsewn and added elastic.
  • For a similar top I would just use the Pattern for Top-001A and add in the darts. (It would be slightly different as that one has a dart in the side seam).
  • When I want casual sleeveless summer tops, I would probably just use Pattern Top-001A and add in the darts (no elastic), and be able to pull them over my head.

Summary: I wouldn’t make this top again, but I will make Top-001A and sew in the side seam and waist darts (and not put in the elastic).  I think this will be a pattern staple in my wardrobe for summer; easy to make (two pieces of fabric with some shaping)  and uses minimum fabric (no button placket).    I will eventually make this with the piece of lightweight, soft fabric that I purchased in an op-shop for $3, shown below:

Credit for the Stock Photo I used to create the Vector Croquis on this page:

Andersonrise from 123RF Stock Photos

Copyright of original (photo) image: andersonrise / 123RF Stock Photo

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