Dress Pattern #3

The information on Dress Pattern 3 that used to be on a number of pages are now consolidated in this one page.  This first section contains general information.

Click on the link to go directly to the other sections:

General Information

Third Scale Blocks for Practice

You can follow along and practice patternmaking using free Third Scale Blocks, or you can draft the pattern full size for yourself.

Making Your Own Custom Block

If you do not have a custom block, you can find video instructions for how to draft them here: Drafting Blocks.   How to take measurements are covered in the videos.   You can buy the accompanying booklet from my Books Ko-Fi Shop.

Buying (Standard) Blocks

If you would prefer to buy a set of Standard Blocks or Slopers, you can buy them from my Blocks Ko-Fi Shop Bodice Blocks are $12, Skirt Blocks are $5, Pants Blocks $8 and a Complete Set costs $20.00.  These blocks come in sizes 6 – 22, and you can find a comprehensive list of the measurements for each size in the Measurements for Downloadable Blocks page.

Important! I recommend you buy the standard blocks ONLY if your measurements match the measurements given CLOSELY.  I do not give assistance on adjusting blocks. If you have a non-standard body I recommend you draft your own block with your own measurements.

My Ko-Fi Shops

I have 2 Ko-Fi shops; from one I sell my Downloadable PDF Booklets, and from the other I sell the Standard Blocks.

Description: Dress 3

  • Sleeveless Princess line dress
  • Flared skirt
  • Boat neckline with neckline pleat
  • Below the knee length

To see what this dress looked like in real life, scroll down to the bottom of the page.

Flat & Details

  • Princess line running from armhole to hem.
  • Pleat darts in front neckline.
  • Side pieces (front and back) with high waistline seam.
  • Standard all-in-one facing on Bodice Front and Bodice Back.
  • Flare added to hem of each pattern piece. Total hem is 46 inches (117 cm)
  • Invisible zip in CB.

Block/s Used

This dress has a princess line seam running from armhole to hem, therefore I had planned on using the Extended Line Dress block.  However in the end I decided to use just the (Sleeveless) Bodice Block (i.e. I don’t need to use the Skirt Block).

I am using my personalized blocks in the instructions rather than the standard size 14 that I use for general instructions (e.g. in the Principles and Elements pages); since I am creating the garment for myself, I am using my blocks.  The Sleeveless block I use has my contour markings noted, although I only show the ones relevant to the pattern.

For instructions on how to create a personalized Bodice block to fit your individual figure, see the relevant pages under the Making Block Menu –  Making the Bodice Block Set.

Third Scale Blocks are available for download, so you can follow along and practice patternmaking theory without making the pattern full-size. Click on the link provided to be taken to the Third Scale Blocks page.  Before trying to make these patterns, even third scale, you should have a good understanding of the principles in the Principles Pages on this website.

Plan of Action

If you are just starting out making your own patterns, it helps to first outline a Plan of Action rather than just diving in.  The plan of action consists of looking at the Flat and any specification and making notes about what needs to be done, such as:

  • determining many pattern pieces the design requires
  • listing the pattern pieces
  • making notes on what needs to be done for certain pattern pieces, or groups of pattern pieces (where relevant).
  • doing any necessary calculations (e.g. how much needs to be added onto each pattern piece at the hem area)
  • if you are using any ready-to-wear clothing for a reference, measuring and noting the measurements

I will write a list of the pattern pieces, but I won’t necessarily write notes on each and every pattern piece. For example;  if I am creating facing and it is standard facing, I don’t need to write any notes.  If you are just starting though, you may need to note the width of the facing at the side seam and CF/CB.  As you make more patterns, is is likely you will write less notes as you will have the information in your head.

In this case, I am using a ready-to-wear dress that I have with a princess line seam to refer to for the hem area.  The dress I am referring to is above-knee length, and my design is for a below-the-knee length, but I decided to use the same hem area because I find the reference-dress too full at the above-knee.  I think that fullness will work better at the below-knee level of the dress I am making.

How many pattern pieces?

The Flat gives the necessary information for the external pieces, but you also need to think about the internal pieces such as lining,  facing, interfacing etc.

There are 8 Pattern Pieces for Dress 003; six main pieces and two internal pieces; both the front and back have all-in-one facing.

  1. Dress Center Front
  2. Bodice Side Front
  3. Side Skirt Front
  4. Dress Center Back
  5. Bodice Side Back
  6. Side Skirt Back
  7. Bodice Front Facing (and interfacing)
  8. Bodice Back Facing (and interfacing)

Notes/Plan of Action for creating Pattern Pieces

As mentioned at the beginning, I am referencing a ready-to-wear dress with a princess seam that has a flared skirt,  to get the hem area for my pattern.  I will not be replicating it exactly – I will be using it as a guide.

Dress Center Front (PP #1)

  • Note – don’t draw the Princess Line until after the dart manipulation!
  • Pivot some of the side seam dart into the neckline to create the neckline tuck dart.
  • Draw the princess line (after that the dart manipulation is done)
  • Dress length to be 24.25 inches (61 cm cm) below the knee
  • Hem area of this pattern piece:  8.25 inches (21 cm) – see the image Plan of Action Sketch.

I drew a rough sketch by hand of the design, something like in this image.  I then measured the hem area of the CF, Front Side, CB and Back Side of my reference garment, and wrote those measurements on my drawing.

At this stage, I decided that I would use the back measurements (of the reference garment), for both the front and back of my pattern. I also made other notes that related to other pattern pieces.

Dress Center Back (PP#4)

  • Referencing the ready-to-wear dress, I decided I want to go with the same CB width at the waist, which is 20cm, or 10cm for the half block. This means I have to move my back dart – see the image Plan of Action Back Dart.
  • Hem Area 16.5 inches (21 cm) (as per the details under the Center Front PP).

The image below is is to show why I want to move the back dart.  Important: this is for me, my block, my figure.  You may not need or want to move the back dart on your block.

The drawing to the left is what I want the dress to look like, the drawing to the right shows what the stylelines look like if I left my dart in it’s current place – though it is exaggerated to some extent to show the point.  I know this just from experience; the placement of the back dart (on my block) that works for waisted dresses (for me) doesn’t work so well for the Princess Line (for me).  See image 3 for how this is obvious on the block.

Bodice Side Front  & Bodice Side Back

  • The (waist) style line is 1.5-inches (4 cm) above the actual waist line.

Skirt Side Front & Skirt Side Back

  • Skirt length is 24.25 inches (61.75 cm) below the knee, but remember that the bodice piece begins 1.5-inches (4 cm) above the waist.
  • Skirt flare to begin at waist level.  I want the 1.5-inches (4cm) at the top of the skirt (which is a part of the bodice attached to the skirt) to go straight down.

Outcome & Notes

This shows the original concept drawing, plus the final garment. Scrpll down further for the step-by-step instructions.

Improvements

The fabric I used for this dress was viscose, and I had never sewn with viscose before this. I found that the dress was far looser than I expected.  The dress the very comfortable and lightweight and great for summer (despite being black).  With this viscose I didn’t need the lining that I do with the lightweight cottons I love (they are far too see-through!).

If making it again with viscose I would reduce the ease in the bust and waist, and I would also lower the neckline. Although it is lightweight, cool and comfortable, I feel that it is a bit frumpy.  It would definitely be better with a lower neckline and with a shorter length – just above the knee – but my problem is that at the moment I have swollen knees due to inflammatory arthritis, so I need that longer length.

This dress was based on a shop purchased garment that I liked, however that one was a winter dress made out of a heavier fabric.  I would try this again with a light winter wool but make it shorter to wear with tights and knee length boot.  (With tights my swollen knees are not so obvious).

Next: Dress Pattern #3, Step-by-Step Instructions.

Credit for the Stock Photo I used to create the Vector Croquis on this page:

Irina Bogolapova from 123RF Stock Photos

Copyright: kiraliffe / 123RF Stock Photo

Step-by-Step Instructions: Dress 3

This is the list of the 8 pattern pieces that I will be drafting in the step-by-step instructions below.

  1. Dress Center Front
  2. Bodice Side Front
  3. Side Skirt Front
  4. Dress Centre Back
  5. Bodice Side Back
  6. Side Skirt Back
  7. Bodice Front Facing (and interfacing)
  8. Bodice Back Facing (and interfacing)

Note

When making patterns, at certain stages you need to cut up your pattern, stick it together, add paper underneath, sticky taping it together, transfer it (however you want to do that) onto other paper to add seam allowance, etc.  You will need to work out a system for yourself to minimise the amount of work; e..g. pivoting darts from the block to the paper when possible, cutting just the parts that need work etc.  I will not be giving detailed instructions for your workflow, that is something you need to work out for yourself.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 1

Dress center Front (PP#1) & Front Facing (PP#7)

The Dress center Front piece will be a long pattern piece as it runs from the shoulder/neck to below the knee.  However, at this point we will be working on just the bodice, which will include a bit of cutting and taping.  When the Bodice is finished and cut along the Princess Line, then it will be traced (or wheeled) onto paper again and the skirt section added.

  • Trace your Block onto paper, transferring the contouring information (shoulder line and neck gape dart).
  • Draw the boat neckline on the Bodice block.  I have chosen a depth of 1.3 inches (3.3 cm) down from the CF neck and 1.85 inches (4.7 cm) down from the neckline shoulder point.
  • Redraw the armhole.  I have taken 0.31- inch (0.75 cm) from the shoulder edge.
  • Make sure that you take into account the shoulder contouring guide when drawing the shoulder line.
  • Measure up 1.56 inches (4 cm) from CF waistline (from A to B) and the side seam waistline (from C to D), and draw a line from B to D.  We will cut this off – it will be added back in when adding the skirt to this pattern piece.
  • Cut the pattern so far.  At this point is it a good idea to put this shape on your block and draw the the shoulder and the neckline on the block. This makes it easier when you go  to draw the Bodice Back shoulder and armhole).
  • Cut along the neck gape dart line to the Bust Point and from the top side seam dart line to the Bust Point.*  (For details on how to move darts, see the Contouring pages under the Principles Menu).

*Best practice is to not cut the block into two separate pieces, but rather leave a little bit of paper attached at the Bust Point, but I think it makes little difference.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 2

I am going to first move the gape dart into the side seam dart.*  The reason for doing this – rather than just moving the gape dart into the neckline dart that is part of the design – is to create the facing before we (a) create a dart in the neckline and (b) start the princess line seam.  We don’t want the facing to have the Princess Line seam or the neck dart.

The facing is all-in-one facing for the armhole and the neckline.

  • Close the neck gape dart. (Note: Secure/tape the neck gape dart line but not the side seam dart line).
  • Smooth out the neckline curve.
  • Trace the facing*.

*For details, refer to the All-in-one Facing page under the Elements Menu.  Note that in this case I am making the facing exactly the same as the Bodice, but it is best practice to shave a little – e.g. 06 or .13 inch off the armhole and the neckline to make sure the facing does not poke out.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 3

We will finish off the facing before continuing with the Dress center Front:

  • add seam allowance
  • note grainline
  • add cutting instructions
  • note CF
  • label the pattern piece (name of pattern piece, pattern piece number)

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 4

We will continue with the Dress center Front pattern piece.

  • Mark the neckline line, drawing a line from the Bust Point to the neck.  I have placed it about 2.31 inches (6 cm ) from the CF neck.
  • Cut along the line just made.  You should also have the opening at the side seam that was cut and not taped.
  • Pivot the armhole piece (shaded in green for emphasis) anti-clockwise to open up a dart in the neckline.  I am making the dart 1.19 inches (3 cm).
  • You will need to put paper underneath the neck piece and secure the piece at the neck dart and side seam dart.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 5

  • Draw the Princess Line* from the armhole, passing close to the Bust Point (it doesn’t have to go exactly through the BP, a little distance away is OK;  getting a better curve is more important) and down the waist dart leg that is closest to the CF.
  • Place the notches for easing*.
  • Cut along this line to separate the Bodice into two pieces.

Put aside the Bodice Side piece for the moment (pattern piece #2), we will first finish the Dress center Front (pattern piece #1).

* Details for drafting the Princess Line can be found on the Princess Line – Armhole page in the Elements menu.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 6

We are now going to finish off Pattern Piece #1 (Dress center Front).

  • Trace/wheel the information from the pattern piece so far onto fresh paper; don’t forget the BP and the ease notches (highlighted in orange).
  • Finish off the neckline dart edge (highlighted in blue).
  • Mark the neckline tuck dart (highlighted in green).

We will now extend the CF to include the skirt.

  • Mark down 1.56 inches from points A and B and mark points C and D. (The line C~D is the waist).
  • Extend the CF line down from D for the length of the skirt (24.25 inches, 61.5 cm), and mark the hemline E.
  • Draw a  line from E at right angles to the CF line for the hem length for this pattern piece;  as per the plan of action, 8.875 inches  (17.75 inches ? 2 for the half-pattern).
  • Draw a line from waist C to hemline F.
  • Measure down the C~F line for the length of the skirt mark point G.
  • Draw the hem curve from E to point G.

We will put a notch point on side seam line after we create the side skirt pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 7

The drafting of the Dress center Front is finished, now the pattern piece just needs to be finished off:

  • add seam allowance (I have .38 inch at the neckline and armhole and .63 inch on other seams.  I am going to use hem bias tape on the hem, so .63 inch for the hem is sufficient).
  • draw the grainline parallel to CF.
  • add  cutting instructions.
  • label the pattern piece (name of piece, number, etc).

I will come back to this pattern piece to put a notch on the side seam when the Skirt Front Side pattern piece is finished.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 8

We will now work on the Bodice Side piece – pattern piece # 2 –  that we put aside a few steps ago.

  • (Figure Step A): Cut off the waist dart value.
  • (Figure Step B): Cut along the top dart line to the Bust Point notch.  Cut right through to make two pieces.
  • (Figure Step C): Close the dart, so that both dart legs meet at the side seam.  Don’t sticky tape the two pieces together yet!
  • (Figure Step D): Holding the two pieces together at the side seam (marked x), open it up at the bust point (marked y) for 0.25-inch (B cup) and up to .5-inch (DD cup).*  The orange shading you can see is the amount that has been opened up.

* Opening this up at the bust point will give some extra ease to this curve.  The larger your bust cup, the more pronounced the curve, the curvier this piece is, the more ease is required to sew it to the Bodice Front piece.  See the following two pages in the Elements Menu for other examples:  Princess Line Shoulder & Princess Line Armhole.  Note that different fabrics also may require different amounts of ease.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 9

The Bodice Front Side pattern piece needs to be finished off:

  • Trace/wheel it off onto the final paper, making sure the curve is smoothed out.
  • Add seam allowance
  • Draw the grainline.
  • Add cutting instructions.
  • Label (pattern name, pattern piece, etc).
  • Mark notches.
  • Make sure you mark the seam join point at the armhole.*.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 10

We will now create the Skirt Side Front pattern piece (PP#3).

  • Take the Bodice Side Front and measure the ‘waist’ measurement not including the seam allowance. (It is not actually the waist, it is 1.56 inch above waist).
  • Draw a line from A to B; the value of the measurement just taken.
  • Measure down for 1.56 inch (4cm) from A and B  to points C and D.
  • Draw a line from C to D – this is the waistline.
  • Mark a point half-way between C and D  and mark point E.
  • Draw a line down from E to the value of the skirt length – for me it is 24.25 inches (61.5 cm). Mark the end point F.
  • With F as the center, draw a horizontal line, at right angles to the E~F line, to the value of hem area for this pattern piece (15.25 inches as per the Plan of Action).  Label the end points of this line G and H.
  • Draw lines from C towards G for the value of the skirt length – it will finish a bit before H – and mark the end point J.
  • Draw a line from D towards H for the value of the skirt length – it will finish a bit before G – and mark the end point I.
  • Draw the hem curving from I to F to J.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 11

Before adding seam allowance and finishing off the Side Skirt Front pattern piece, take pattern piece # 1 (Bodice Front), and check the skirt seam lengths – check it against the seam line of PP#!1..  Mark a notch on both pattern pieces down in the hip area.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 12

Finish off the Skirt Side Front:

  • add seam allowance
  • draw the grainline
  • add cutting instructions
  • label the pattern piece (name, piece number)

Note that after the Skirt Side Back pattern piece is made, we will check the side seam lengths and add two notches on the side seams.  With this pattern piece you will be able to tell which side of the skirt joins the Bodice Front and which joins the Back by these notches (one notch on the front, two notches on the side seam).

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 13

The four front pattern pieces are finished, and now we’ll start on the Bodice Back.  In the instructions under Figure 1,  I said to draw the shoulder and neckline on your block; it makes it easier now to draw the back armhole and neckline.

  • Trace the Back Block onto paper
  • Place your Bodice Front Block so that the shoulder lines meet and draw the neckline and armhole.  (Remember to use your Bodice Back contour markings). My back neckline depth is 1.18 inches (3cm).
  • Measure up 1.58 inches from CB waist (from A to B).
  • Measure up 1.58 inches from CB side seam (from C to D).
  • Draw a line from B to D.  As with the Bodice Front, the bottom section will be taken into account when adding the skirt.
  • As per my Plan of Action, I have moved my dart over towards the side seam so that the Princess Line looks better. (If you move it or how much you move it is up to you, it’s a preference).
  • Draw the Princess Line Armhole*.   Don’t cut yet as we will create the Back Facing before doing so.

* For directions for the standard shaping, see the page under the Elements menu titled Princess Line Armhole.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 14

We will now create the Back Facing – Pattern Piece #8.  I have created it to the same shape as the block, but best practice is to shave about 1/16 or 1/8 inch off the armhole and the neckline to make sure the facing is turned under and is not seen.

  • Facing extends down to 4 inches at the CB and 2 inches at the side seam.

Trace the shape from the pattern and finish off the pattern piece.

  • add seam allowance (I have added 0.38 inch at the neckline and armhole, none at the inside edge as I will just overlock (serge) that edge, and .56 for the other seams).
  • add cutting instructions
  • note grainline
  • label the pattern piece (name of piece and number)

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 15

We will go back to pattern piece #4 – Dress center Back.

  • Before you cut the Back Bodice into the two pattern piece, mark a notch on both pattern pieces at the dart point.
  • Cut along the Princess Line to separate the two pattern pieces.
  • Trace/wheel the information pattern piece #4 (Dress center Back) onto fresh paper; don’t forget the dart notch point

We will now extend the CB to include the skirt.

  • Mark down 1.56 inches from points A and B and mark points C and D. (The line C~D is the waist).
  • Extend the CB line down from C for the length of the skirt (24.25 inches, 61.5 cm), and mark the hemline E.
  • Draw a  line from E at right angles to the CB line for the hem length for this pattern piece;  as per the plan of action, 8.875 inches  (17.75 inches ? 2 for the half-pattern).
  • Draw a line from waist point D to hemline F.
  • Measure down the D ~F line for the length of the skirt (24.25 inches, 61.5 cm), and mark the point G.
  • Draw the hem curve from E to point G.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 16

  • Mark down the CB line from C for 8.5 inches (approx hip depth) and place three notches.
  • Mark down the D~G seam line for 8.5 inches and place two notches.

The drafting of the Dress center Front is finished, now the pattern piece just needs to be finished off:

  • add seam allowance (I have .38 inch at the neckline and armhole and .63 inch on other seams.  As mentioned before, I am going to use hem bias tape on the hem, so .63 inch for the hem is sufficient).
  • draw the grainline parallel to CB.
  • add cutting instructions.
  • label the pattern piece (name of piece, number, etc).

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 17

We will now work on the Bodice Back Side piece – pattern piece # 5 –  that we put aside a few steps ago.

  • Cut the dart off.
  • Smooth the curve.

Before finishing off this piece by adding seam allowance, we will walk it against the Bodice Back piece; smoothing the curve may have affected the length of the line and it may not match pattern piece #4.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 18

  • Check the length of the curved seam against pattern piece #4 (Dress center Back) by walking the pieces at the seam line.
  • Figure 18A: If the Bodice Side Back seam length is too short, you will need to add the necessary amount at the armhole (shown with red shading)
  • Figure 18B: If the Bodice Side Back seam length is too long, you can shave some off the armhole. (You can adjust the Dress center Back piece as well as, or instead, but since that pattern piece is finished, I would just adjust current pattern piece*)

* It is best practice to finish doing the drafting of all the pattern pieces before adding seam allowance, because as you see here, you may need to make changes.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 19

Finish off the Bodice Side Back – pattern piece #5.

  • add seam allowance (I have added 0.38 inch at the armhole and  0.56 inch for the other seams).
  • add cutting instructions
  • mark the grainline
  • label the pattern piece (name of piece and number)
  • mark the seam point at the armhole.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 20

We will now create the Skirt Side Back pattern piece (PP#6).

  • Take the Bodice Side Back and measure the ‘waist’ measurement not including the seam allowance. (It is not actually the waist, it is 1.56 inches above waist).
  • Draw a line from A to B; the value of the measurement just taken.
  • Measure down for 1.56 inch (4cm) from A and B  to points C and D.
  • Draw a line from C to D – this is the waistline.
  • Mark a point half-way between C and D  and mark point E.
  • Draw a line down from E to the value of the skirt length – for me it is 24.25 inches (61.5 cm). Mark the end point F.
  • With F as the center, draw a horizontal line, at right angles to the E~F line, to the value of hem area for this pattern piece (15.25 inches as per the Plan of Action).  Label the end points of this line G and H.
  • Draw lines from C towards G for the value of the skirt length – it will finish a bit before H – and mark the end point J.
  • Draw a line from D towards H for the value of the skirt length – it will finish a bit before G – and mark the end point I.
  • Draw the hem curving from I to F to J.

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 21

Before adding seam allowance and finishing off the Side Skirt Front, check the seam lengths on both sides, and finish off notches:

  • Take PP#4 (Dress center Back), and check the skirt seam length – check it against the seam line.
  • Mark the three hip notches on PP#6.
  • Take PP#3 (Side Skirt Front), and check the skirt seam length – check it against the seam line.
  • Mark the two hip notches on PP#6.

Note that each skirt seam has different notches to easily differentiate the pattern pieces (one notch skirt front, two notches side seam, three notches skirt back, four notches center back)

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 22

Finish off the Skirt Side Back:

  • add seam allowance
  • draw the grainline
  • add cutting instructions
  • label the pattern piece (name, piece number)

Instructions Dress 003 – Figure 23

And here are all the pattern pieces:

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