Dress Pattern #2

The information on Dress Pattern 2 that used to be on a number of pages are now consolidated in this one page.  This first section contains general information.

Click on the link to go directly to the other sections:

General Information

Third Scale Blocks for Practice

You can follow along and practice patternmaking using free Third Scale Blocks, or you can draft the pattern full size for yourself.

Making Your Own Custom Block

If you do not have a custom block, you can find video instructions for how to draft them here: Drafting Blocks.   How to take measurements are covered in the videos.   You can buy the accompanying booklet from my Books Ko-Fi Shop.

Buying (Standard) Blocks

If you would prefer to buy a set of Standard Blocks or Slopers, you can buy them from my Blocks Ko-Fi Shop Bodice Blocks are $12, Skirt Blocks are $5, Pants Blocks $8 and a Complete Set costs $20.00.  These blocks come in sizes 6 – 22, and you can find a comprehensive list of the measurements for each size in the Measurements for Downloadable Blocks page.

Important! I recommend you buy the standard blocks ONLY if your measurements match the measurements given CLOSELY.  I do not give assistance on adjusting blocks. If you have a non-standard body I recommend you draft your own block with your own measurements.

My Ko-Fi Shops

I have 2 Ko-Fi shops; from one I sell my Downloadable PDF Booklets, and from the other I sell the Standard Blocks.

Description: Dress 2

  • Sleeveless dress with high scoop neckline.
  • Classic Empire Line; slope from front to back.
  • Pleated flared skirt.
  • Fully lined.

To see what this dress looked like in real life, see at the bottom of the page.

Note: This dress may look very similar to Dress 001 in the Concept images, but there are various differences which can be more clearly seen in the Flats and the Pattern Pieces images:

  • different skirts (skirt in dress 001 is more of a circle skirt, dress 002 has pleats in the waist, hem area very different)
  • different waistbands (dress 001 has a square waistband, dress 002 has fitted Empire Line styling)
  • difference in darts/dart equivalents (dress 001 has gathering, all dart value in waist, dress 002 has darts in side seam and waist)
  • obvious difference in neckline

Flat & Details

 

  • Bodice front has darts in the side seam and under bust (to empire line).
  • Bodice back has dart in waist as per the empire line.
  • Front neckline depth 4-in (10cm).
  • Back has a boat neckline with a depth of 1.75-in (4.5cm).
  • Waistband is an Empire line curve: 4-inches (10cm) wide at CF, 3,13-inches (8cm) at side seam, 2.75-inches (7cm) at CB.
  • Waistband has 2-inches ease.
  • Invisible zip in CB.
  • 3 x 2-inch (5cm) pleats in Skirt Front waistband
  • 3 x 2.75-inch (7cm) pleats in Skirt Back waistband.
  • Total hem: 78 inches (198cm).
  • Fully lined.
  • Interfacing on the lining of the waistband, and part of the front and back lining

Block/s used

I will use the separate Bodice Blocks and Skirt Blocks (rather than a Dress Block, for example).

I am actually going to use the Sleeveless Bodice Blocks (2-Dart Block Front), as this block already has the width of the block reduced, the armhole raised a little, and the back shoulder dart removed.  I am using the 2-Dart Skirt Block to make the flared skirt.

My Sleeveless Bodice Blocks also already have the Empire Line markings noted.  Instructions on how to do this are found under the Elements Menu > Stylelines pages, click on this link to go to the Empire Line page.

I am showing my personalised blocks rather than the standard size 14 that I use for general instructions; this is the actual block I used to create my pattern, as I am creating the dress for myself (as with all my patterns).

For instructions on how to create personalised blocks to fit your individual figures, see the relevant pages under the Making Block Menu –  Making the Bodice Block Set and Making the Skirt Block Set.

Third Scale Blocks are available for download, so you can follow along and practice patternmaking theory without making the pattern full-size. Click on the link provided to be taken to the Third Scale Blocks page.  Before trying to make these patterns, even third scale, you should have a good understanding of the theory in the Principles Pages on this website.

Plan of Action

If you are just starting out making your own patterns, it helps to first outline a Plan of Action rather than just diving in.  The plan of action consists of looking at the Flat and any specification and making notes about what needs to be done, such as:

  • determining many pattern pieces there will be
  • listing the pattern pieces
  • making notes on what needs to be done for each pattern piece, or groups of pattern pieces where you need to make a change, i.e. if the facing is standard facing, my POA I would list it as a pattern piece, but no notes would be required.
  • doing any necessary calculations (e.g. how much needs to be added onto each pattern piece at the hem area)

You then refer to these notes when creating the pattern pieces.

My plan of action may be helpful if you are following along; you can see an overview of what I am planning to do.

How many pattern pieces

The Flat gives the necessary information for the external pieces, but you also need to think about the internal pieces such as lining, facing and interfacing.

There are 10 Pattern Pieces for Dress 002.  As it is fully lined, some pieces are the same for the fabric and the lining, and in the case of the waistband, the same for the fabric, lining and interfacing.   The skirts lining is the same as the fabric with one difference; the lining is about 3 inches shorter than the fabric.  For this reason I’m making separate pattern pieces for that lining.

  1. Bodice Front
  2. Midriff Front (also for lining & interfacing)
  3. Skirt Front
  4. Bodice Back
  5. Midriff Back (also for lining and interfacing)
  6. Skirt Back
  7. Skirt Lining Front
  8. Skirt Lining Back
  9. Bodice Front Interfacing
  10. Bodice Back Interfacing

Notes/Plan of Action for creating Pattern Pieces

Now in this section, keep in mind that I’m walking through my thinking process.  Although I am showing you images; these actions generally haven’t happened – they are just in my head at the moment. I’m showing you the images so that the points make sense.  These notes are made only for the pattern pieces that require some extra work.

Remember I am using my Sleeveless Bodice Blocks.  If you were using your Standard Blocks you would need to reduce the block width and do armhole contouring.

Bodice Front

In the image for the POA Bodice I have removed the label (the block name, etc) and the contour markings that aren’t relevant so that it is easier to see the essential information.

 I will outline first what I will be doing, then indicate these on the image below.

  • As I have very large side seam dart, and this design has a waistline seam, I am going to move a bit of the side seam dart to the waist.
  • Moving some of the side seam dart into the waist will actually make the waist dart at the Empire Line level very large, but as I plan on having 2-inches ease the under-bust level  that will reduce the size of the waist dart.  (Note that if I wanted to keep it close fitting with only 1 inch ease, I would reduce the large waist dart by taking some off the side seam).
  • Although the neckline isn’t low, it will still result in a bit of a gape dart and require contouring.

Image: Bodice

  • (A) is the original block.
  • In (B),  some the side seam dart has been pivoted into the waist.  The yellow is the block after the pivoting has been done; it is superimposed on the original block so you can see the difference.
  • (C)  has the neckline drawn with a dashed blue line. The blue shading shows the gape dart amount that needs to be moved into one of the other darts.  I will be moving it into the waist dart.
  • (D) shows the final shape, after the gape dart is moved into the waist.  The pink lines show the waist dart redrawn to add extra ease into the under-bust line.

Note:  In this image I have done the two dart manipulations (side seam and gape dart) in separate steps, however the pivoting of these two darts could be done in one step.  They are shown separately here for clarity.

Note 2: The midriff pattern piece will obviously have to be created to match the Bodice (ie. extra ease in the under-bust line).

Skirt

  • The Skirt Front has three pleats, 2.5cm wide, requiring 5cm extra width per pleats, total 15cm
  • The Skirt Back has three pleats, 3.5cm wide, requiring 7cm extra width per pleat, total 21cm

In the image below shows the pleats for the Skirt Front. (The Skirt Back is not shown).

This second skirt image shows how the the skirt will be created.  The additional width for pleats is the 15cm required, less 4cm dart value  Therefore the extension will be 11cm.

A similar calculation is required for the Skirt Back. I will require an extension of 15.5cm for my Skirt Back.

Interfacing

I do not want (or need) interfacing on the whole Bodice Front and Bodice Back lining pieces – I will create the interfacing pattern pieces as I would facing, as shown by the shaded green pieces in How Many Pattern Pieces image near the top of the page.

If you did not want the dress fully lined, these interfacing pattern pieces could also be used for facing as well as interfacing.

This shows the original concept drawing, the final garment on a mannequin, and a photo of me wearing the garment.

Note

The waistband has 2 inches ease, so initially I thought the dress was a bit loose in the waist and that I should have made it more fitting.  However, I find that when wearing it all day and if sitting for a long time, this extra ease is needed.

Credit for the Stock Photo I used to create the Vector Croquis on this page:

Arturkurjan from 123 RF Stock Photos:

Copyright:  arturkurjan / 123RF Stock Photo

Step-by-Step Instructions: Dress 2

This is the list of the 10 pattern pieces that I will be drafting in the step-by-step instructions below.

  • PP#1 – Bodice Front
  • PP#2 – Midriff Front (also for lining & interfacing)
  • PP#3 – Skirt Front
  • PP#4 – Bodice Back
  • PP#5 – Midriff Back (also for lining & interfacing)
  • PP#6 – Skirt Back
  • PP#7 – Skirt Lining Front
  • PP#8 – Skirt Lining Back
  • PP#9 – Bodice Front Interfacing
  • PP#10 – Bodice Back Interfacing

These pattern pieces do not need to be (and will not be) created in the order listed, but they will retain the pattern numbers (e.g Bodice Front will be Pattern Piece #1, the Midriff Front will be Pattern Piece #2, etc).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 1

Bodice Front & Back

  • Draw the neckline on the Front and Back Bodice blocks (shown by a thick red line in the image).
  • Take into account the shoulder contouring (both front and back).
  • Check the flow-through from front to back.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 2

  • Trace the blocks with the new neckline onto paper.
  • Make sure you transfer the Empire line markings (green lines).
  • Make sure you transfer the gape dart information (blue lines).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 3

I am going to start of Pattern Piece #1 first – the Bodice Front.  I noted earlier that I am going to move some of my side seam dart into the waist; this is purely a personal preference as my 2-Dart Bodice Block with the straight waist line results in a very large side seam dart.

  • Separate the Bodice Front from the Midriff.

The midriff will have to be amended after the the Bodice is finished.  Note that this is the case only because I have decided to have extra ease in the under-bust design line  (additional to the standard 1-inch ease which is what is included in the Empire Line markings).  If I was using the EL markings exactly as they are, increasing the waist dart by pivoting the neckline gape dart and the portion from the side seam dart would have no effect on the Midriff pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 4

  • Cut through the gape dart line to the BP then from the BP through the waist dart leg.
  • Pivot the side piece on the BP until the gape dart is closed.
  • Tape together.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 5

  • Cut from the lower dart leg to the Bust Point.
  • Pivot the bottom piece to close the shaded portion of the side seam dart.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 6

  • Smooth the neckline curve.
  • Redraw the darts.

As I am adding ease to the under-bust design line, I will reduce the waist dart by 0.75-inch.

  • Measure in 0.38-inch from each waist dart leg.
  • Redraw the dart waist (shown with red lines in the image)
  • Redraw the Empire line dart legs on the Front Midriff to match the Bodice (shown with red lines in the image)..

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 7

Bodice Front (Pattern Piece #1) finished:

  • Add seam allowance
  • Add cutting instructions (which will also show grainline).
  • Label pattern piece

Midriff Front (Pattern Piece #2) finished:

  • Cut along the new dart lines (in red).
  • Stick the two pieces together and smooth the two curves.
  • Add seam allowance
  • Add cutting instructions (which will also show the grainline).
  • Label pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 8

The interfacing is created the same as facing would be created.  If you did not want to fully line this dress, this pattern piece could be used for both facing and interfacing.

  • Trace the facing from the Bodice Front pattern piece: 2 inches width at the side seam and CF. (2-inches from the seam line).
  • Add cutting instructions (which will include the grainline).
  • Label pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 9

Bodice Back – Pattern Piece #4 – continued from Figure 2.

  • Separate Bodice Back from Midriff.
  • Add seam allowance
  • Add cutting instructions
  • Note grainline.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 10

Bodice Back Interfacing – Pattern Piece #10.

  • Trace the interfacing from the Bodice Back pattern piece: 2 inches width at the side seam and 4 inches depth at the CB. ( measured from the seam lines).
  • Add cutting instructions.
  • Note the grainline.
  • Label pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 11

Back Midriff- Pattern Piece 5.

  • Cut along the dart lines, discard the middle dart piece.
  • Stick the two side pieces together and smooth the two curves.
  • Add seam allowance
  • Add cutting instructions.
  • Note grainline.
  • Label pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 12

Skirt Front – Pattern Piece #3.

There are three pleats in the Skirt Front, each 2 inches, for a total of 6 inches in pleats.

Using the Skirt Front Block as a guide, draw the skirt as shown:

  • Width at waist, A to C equals:  Skirt Block waist A to B, less dart value, plus total pleat widths.*
  • Draw a line down at right angles to C for the length of the skirt.  **
  • Draw a line from D towards the side seam.
  • Draw a line from A towards the hem, the end point being E. This line is the same length as C to D. Draw the line at an angle to touch the side seam and flare out.
  • Draw the curved hemline from D to E.

*In this example: A to B = 9.25 inches (23.5 cm).  Total width A to C = 9.25 inches, minus 1.58 in darts plus 6 inches pleats = 13.67 inches. (23.5cm, minus 4cm darts + 15cm pleats = 34.5cm).

** Skirt Length = 23.6 inches (60 cm).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 13

Mark the pleat placements on the Front waistline:

  • Measure from the CF for 2.36 inches, mark notch 1 for the beginning of the first pleat.
  • Measure 2 inches and mark notch 2 for the end of the first pleat.
  • Measure 1.57 inches for the space between the pleats, mark notch 3 for the beginning of the second pleat.
  • Measure 2 inches and mark notch 4 for the end of the second pleat.
  • Measure another 1.57 inches for the space between the pleats, mark notches 5 for the beginning of the third pleat.
  • Measure 2 inches and mark notch 6 for the end of the third pleat.
  • Mark a notch point about half way down the side seam; you will line up the Back Skirt pattern piece to this pattern piece and mark the same notch as a balance point.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 14

Finish off the Skirt Front:

  • Add seam allowance.
  • Label and number the pattern piece.
  • Add cutting instructions.
  • Mark grainline (in this case with the cutting instructions since it is COF).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 15

Skirt Back – Pattern Piece #6.

There are three pleats in the Skirt Back, each 2.75 inches, for a total of 8.25 inches in pleats.

Using the Skirt Front Back as a guide, draw the skirt as shown:

  • Width at waist, A to C equals:  Skirt Block waist A to B, less total dart value, plus total pleat widths.*
  • Draw a line down at right angles to C for the length of the skirt.  **
  • Draw a line from D towards the side seam.
  • Draw a line from A towards the hem, the end point being E. This line is the same length as C to D. Draw the line at an angle to touch the side seam and flare out.
  • Draw the curved hemline from D to E.

*In this example: A to B = 9.84 inches (25 cm).  Total width A to C = 9.84 inches, minus 2.16 inches darts plus 8.25 inches pleats = 15.93 inches. (23cm, minus 5.5cm darts + 21cm pleats = 38.5cm).

** Skirt Length = 23.6 inches (60 cm).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 16

Mark the pleat placements on the Back waistline:

  • Measure from the CB for 2.36 inches, mark notch 1 for the beginning of the first pleat.
  • Measure 2 inches and mark notch 2 for the end of the first pleat.
  • Measure 1.57 inches for the space between the pleats, mark notch 3 for the beginning of the second pleat.
  • Measure 2 inches and mark notch 4 for the end of the second pleat.
  • Measure another 1.57 inches for the space between the pleats, mark notches 5 for the beginning of the third pleat.
  • Measure 2 inches and mark notch 6 for the end of the third pleat.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 17

Finish off the Skirt Back:

  • Add seam allowance.
  • Label and number the pattern piece.
  • Add cutting instructions.
  • Mark grainline (in this case with the cutting instructions since it is COF).
  • Place Skirt Front side seam against Skirt Back and mark side seam notch point.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 18

Skirt Lining Front & Back – Pattern Pieces 7 & 8.

  • Trace the Skirt Front and Skirt Back Pattern Pieces, reducing the length to your preference. (My lining is 3 inches shorter than the dress).

Note that I don’t hem my lining, only overlook or serge it, which is why there is no seam allowance added for the hem.  Also, you could make the lining without the pleats to save fabric and make it less bulky.  (I use a very fine cotton voile for my lining, so I don’t really notice the extra bulk in this dress).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 19

Here are the final ten pattern pieces.

Click to go to Next Page > Outcome & Notes

3 Responses

  1. Hello Olga

    The only booklets I currently sell as for drafting the Bodice Block and the Pants Block. They are on my Ko-Fi shop:

    https://ko-fi.com/mariadresspatternmaking

    I will be publishing some booklets for dresses towards the end of the year (October onwards…) after I finish the video series titled Variations on a Silhouette. I have only made the first video so far (the second one will be out next week).

    https://youtu.be/IEsOqbW7ouM

    You can see the styles of dresses I will be creating booklets for here:

    https://youtu.be/Nsf-BdYWQP4

    Cheers
    Maria

  2. Thanks for this great tutorial on drafting another dress pattern style! I appreciate how you break down the process into clear steps from taking measurements to transferring to paper. Keep sharing your clothing patterns wisdom – it’s so helpful for aspiring home sewers like me!

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