(Drafting) Dress Pattern #2: Step-by-Step Instructions

This is the list of the 10 pattern pieces that I will be drafting in the step-by-step instructions below.

• PP#1 – Bodice Front
• PP#2 – Midriff Front (also for lining & interfacing)
• PP#3 – Skirt Front
• PP#4 – Bodice Back
• PP#5 – Midriff Back (also for lining & interfacing)
• PP#6 – Skirt Back
• PP#7 – Skirt Lining Front
• PP#8 – Skirt Lining Back
• PP#9 – Bodice Front Interfacing
• PP#10 – Bodice Back Interfacing

These pattern pieces do not need to be (and will not be) created in the order listed, but they will retain the pattern numbers (e.g Bodice Front will be Pattern Piece #1, the Midriff Front will be Pattern Piece #2, etc).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 1

Bodice Front & Back

• Draw the neckline on the Front and Back Bodice blocks (shown by a thick red line in the image).
• Take into account the shoulder contouring (both front and back).
• Check the flow-through from front to back.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 2

• Trace the blocks with the new neckline onto paper.
• Make sure you transfer the Empire line markings (green lines).
• Make sure you transfer the gape dart information (blue lines).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 3

I am going to start of Pattern Piece #1 first – the Bodice Front.  I noted earlier that I am going to move some of my side seam dart into the waist; this is purely a personal preference as my 2-Dart Bodice Block with the straight waist line results in a very large side seam dart.

• Separate the Bodice Front from the Midriff.

The midriff will have to be amended after the the Bodice is finished.  Note that this is the case only because I have decided to have extra ease in the under-bust design line  (additional to the standard 1-inch ease which is what is included in the Empire Line markings).  If I was using the EL markings exactly as they are, increasing the waist dart by pivoting the neckline gape dart and the portion from the side seam dart would have no effect on the Midriff pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 4

• Cut through the gape dart line to the BP then from the BP through the waist dart leg.
• Pivot the side piece on the BP until the gape dart is closed.
• Tape together.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 5

• Cut from the lower dart leg to the Bust Point.
• Pivot the bottom piece to close the shaded portion of the side seam dart.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 6

• Smooth the neckline curve.
• Redraw the darts.

As I am adding ease to the under-bust design line, I will reduce the waist dart by 0.75-inch.

• Measure in 0.38-inch from each waist dart leg.
• Redraw the dart waist (shown with red lines in the image)
• Redraw the Empire line dart legs on the Front Midriff to match the Bodice (shown with red lines in the image)..

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 7

Bodice Front (Pattern Piece #1) finished:

• Add seam allowance
• Add cutting instructions (which will also show grainline).
• Label pattern piece

Midriff Front (Pattern Piece #2) finished:

• Cut along the new dart lines (in red).
• Stick the two pieces together and smooth the two curves.
• Add seam allowance
• Add cutting instructions (which will also show the grainline).
• Label pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 8

The interfacing is created the same as facing would be created.  If you did not want to fully line this dress, this pattern piece could be used for both facing and interfacing.

• Trace the facing from the Bodice Front pattern piece: 2 inches width at the side seam and CF. (2-inches from the seam line).
• Add cutting instructions (which will include the grainline).
• Label pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 9

Bodice Back – Pattern Piece #4 – continued from Figure 2.

• Separate Bodice Back from Midriff.
• Add seam allowance
• Add cutting instructions
• Note grainline.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 10

Bodice Back Interfacing – Pattern Piece #10.

• Trace the interfacing from the Bodice Back pattern piece: 2 inches width at the side seam and 4 inches depth at the CB. ( measured from the seam lines).
• Add cutting instructions.
• Note the grainline.
• Label pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 11

Back Midriff- Pattern Piece 5.

• Cut along the dart lines, discard the middle dart piece.
• Stick the two side pieces together and smooth the two curves.
• Add seam allowance
• Add cutting instructions.
• Note grainline.
• Label pattern piece.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 12

Skirt Front – Pattern Piece #3. There are three pleats in the Skirt Front, each 2 inches, for a total of 6 inches in pleats. Using the Skirt Front Block as a guide, draw the skirt as shown:

• Width at waist, A to C equals:  Skirt Block waist A to B, less dart value, plus total pleat widths.*
• Draw a line down at right angles to C for the length of the skirt.  **
• Draw a line from D towards the side seam.
• Draw a line from A towards the hem, the end point being E. This line is the same length as C to D. Draw the line at an angle to touch the side seam and flare out.
• Draw the curved hemline from D to E.

*In this example: A to B = 9.25 inches (23.5 cm).  Total width A to C = 9.25 inches, minus 1.58 in darts plus 6 inches pleats = 13.67 inches. (23.5cm, minus 4cm darts + 15cm pleats = 34.5cm).

** Skirt Length = 23.6 inches (60 cm).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 13

Mark the pleat placements on the Front waistline:

• Measure from the CF for 2.36 inches, mark notch 1 for the beginning of the first pleat.
• Measure 2 inches and mark notch 2 for the end of the first pleat.
• Measure 1.57 inches for the space between the pleats, mark notch 3 for the beginning of the second pleat.
• Measure 2 inches and mark notch 4 for the end of the second pleat.
• Measure another 1.57 inches for the space between the pleats, mark notches 5 for the beginning of the third pleat.
• Measure 2 inches and mark notch 6 for the end of the third pleat.
• Mark a notch point about half way down the side seam; you will line up the Back Skirt pattern piece to this pattern piece and mark the same notch as a balance point.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 14

Finish off the Skirt Front:

• Add seam allowance.
• Label and number the pattern piece.
• Add cutting instructions.
• Mark grainline (in this case with the cutting instructions since it is COF).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 15

Skirt Back – Pattern Piece #6. There are three pleats in the Skirt Back, each 2.75 inches, for a total of 8.25 inches in pleats. Using the Skirt Front Back as a guide, draw the skirt as shown:

• Width at waist, A to C equals:  Skirt Block waist A to B, less total dart value, plus total pleat widths.*
• Draw a line down at right angles to C for the length of the skirt.  **
• Draw a line from D towards the side seam.
• Draw a line from A towards the hem, the end point being E. This line is the same length as C to D. Draw the line at an angle to touch the side seam and flare out.
• Draw the curved hemline from D to E.

*In this example: A to B = 9.84 inches (25 cm).  Total width A to C = 9.84 inches, minus 2.16 inches darts plus 8.25 inches pleats = 15.93 inches. (23cm, minus 5.5cm darts + 21cm pleats = 38.5cm).

** Skirt Length = 23.6 inches (60 cm).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 16

Mark the pleat placements on the Back waistline:

• Measure from the CB for 2.36 inches, mark notch 1 for the beginning of the first pleat.
• Measure 2 inches and mark notch 2 for the end of the first pleat.
• Measure 1.57 inches for the space between the pleats, mark notch 3 for the beginning of the second pleat.
• Measure 2 inches and mark notch 4 for the end of the second pleat.
• Measure another 1.57 inches for the space between the pleats, mark notches 5 for the beginning of the third pleat.
• Measure 2 inches and mark notch 6 for the end of the third pleat.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 17

Finish off the Skirt Back:

• Add seam allowance.
• Label and number the pattern piece.
• Add cutting instructions.
• Mark grainline (in this case with the cutting instructions since it is COF).
• Place Skirt Front side seam against Skirt Back and mark side seam notch point.

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 18

Skirt Lining Front & Back – Pattern Pieces 7 & 8.

• Trace the Skirt Front and Skirt Back Pattern Pieces, reducing the length to your preference. (My lining is 3 inches shorter than the dress).

Note that I don’t hem my lining, only overlook or serge it, which is why there is no seam allowance added for the hem.  Also, you could make the lining without the pleats to save fabric and make it less bulky.  (I use a very fine cotton voile for my lining, so I don’t really notice the extra bulk in this dress).

Instructions Dress 002 – Figure 19

Here are the final ten pattern pieces.

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