This article was originally published in January 2018.
It was then updated on 13 April 2020, changing the ease in the Upper Bust from 6-inches to 5-inches.
Please note that I have since revised my Bodice Block instructions; my system has changed significantly. Please see my YouTube channel for my step-by-step videos using my revised system.
The reason I have left these older written instructions on my website as they still work pretty well for most people and they are the only FREE written instructions I have. The only way to access my new revised system in written form is through my Ko-Fi shop and they cost $10.00.
I would encourage people to use my new system available on my YouTube channel instead of using the instructions below:
YouTube Videos with Revised System
Bodice Front: https://youtu.be/oRHWXw6qMr4
Bodice Back: https://youtu.be/EW8qaMgnV-o
Bodice Front :https://youtu.be/2ubak0HM2HY
Bodice Back: https://youtu.be/aW4mRJNRke4
Written Instructions – Ko-Fi Shop & Google Play
You can also buy booklets from my Ko-Fi shop or Google Play – these booklets contain my my revised system instructions that are in my latest YouTube videos.
This page and the pages in the sub-menu contains preliminary information; the step-by-step instructions can be found on the menu. You will need to refer to this preliminary information when following along with the instructions.
The Bodice Blocks are created based on the Upper Bust rather than the Bust measurement. It will, of course, still fit in the bust. If you want a run-down of why I use the Upper Bust for the width of the block – please read the article Why Upper Bust rather than Bust?
There is a total of 5 inches* wearing ease in the Upper Bust (armhole level) and approx 2.5 inches* of wearing ease in the bust. The ease is distributed evenly between the back and the front, therefore (as the block are based on half the body), there is 1.25 inches added to both Front and Back in the Upper Bust, and 0.75 inches in both Front and Back in the Bust.
There is a total of 1 inch of wearing ease in the waist. This is distributed evenly, therefore (as the blocks are based on half the body), 0.25 inches are added to the Front and Back.
For those of you who may have used some other block making methods, and are interested why there is 5 inches ease in the Upper Bust and 3 inches in the Bust, please read the three articles below, plus the Upper Bust article previously mentioned.
Note the following:
- Although other block-making instructions may seem to add a lot less ease than this (e.g. the instructions may suggest that they add only 2 inches ease to the block), those block making instructions are based on the Bust measurement. I have written a number of articles explaining the theory, and also deconstrucing other block making instructions by industry experts (Aldrich & Joseph-Armstrong) that show the the amount of ease added in their instructions end up in the vicinity of 5.25/5 inches in the Upper Bust and 3.25/2.75 in the bust), even through the instructions may suggest that only 2 inches ease is included.
- This block is for garments with sleeves; you need some ease in the block at the underarm area if you want to be able to get a full range of movement. If you are creating a Sleeveless Garment you will remove some of this ease.
The Bodice Front is created with two darts. With this block making method, it is more usual to create a one-dart block, then use that block to create a two-dart block by pivoting or cutting and spreading, but we will be distributing the dart excess (by cutting and spreading) within the instructions. (If you don’t know what this means, don’t worry about it, you’ll find out as you make your block).
The block created will have the waist parallel to the floor. You can redistribute the darts as you please when making patterns.
As I have said in many places on my website, when you are drafting a Bodice Block, your Bra Cup Size is irrelevant. The cup size for patternmaking is a completely different thing to cup size for bras. You may have an F, G or H cup in bras, but be only a C or D for patternmaking purposes.
The Bodice Back has one waist dart and a shoulder dart.
Bodice with Sleeves
This bodice block is for use when you want a garment with sleeves. Once you start cutting the shoulder line in and the neckline down, you need to use a Sleeveless Block, which you can make from this block. (You could alternatively mark those lines on this block and make the necessary adjustments when making the pattern.)
To stress this point: If you make this block, then make a fitting toile, and it fits well, you cannot then create patterns with low necklines and cutaway arms using this block and expect it to fit. The garment will gape in the armhole and the neckline. When making the Sleeveless Block, you determine how much gaping there will be through a toile fitting, and make the necessary markings on the block so that when you want to create cutaway arms and low necklines, you have the necessary information marked on your block to make the adjustments.
At the very bottom of each of the instructions pages (i.e. at the bottom of the Instructions Pages) for a small fee you can download the step-by-step instructions that appear on the website, but in a more print-friendly booklet (PDF). The graphics will have better resolution and it will print on fewer pages. There are also some additional downloads: a condensed version of the step-by-step instructions, and a one-page outline. The content of these two files (the condensed and outline) are not found on the website.
While you can just copy and paste the information on the website and print it for free, if you have found the information I supply on this website useful, please consider paying the fee to help support the running costs of this website and the time I spend creating content.
The pdf booklet is not clicking to anything. Am I doing something wrong
I cannot find the link to the Pdf on the step by step instructions on making the bodice block. Please help.
Hello??? Hello??? Is anyone there? I managed to download your instructions once, but unfortunately, I am MISSING portions. I would GLADLY PAY to download your instructions for drafting blocks!! PLEASE!!! Make them available!!! I have been all OVER the internet, I have purchased text books. You instructions are the ONLY ONES that make sense to me! a couple of years ago I managed to draft a couple of PERFECT patterns, but now I can’t seem to find the complete information! PLEASE! Are you there?
Just to let you know that I only answer comments and emails every 2 or 3 weeks. I have spent thousands of hours on my website content and I offer all that for free. BUT I have a day job and a life which takes precedence over giving more of my (free) time to others.
I would assume the instructions you refer to are the ones that are still available on my website in the ‘Drafting Patterns’ Menu. While I did for a while have a free downloadable booklet, that is no longer available. However, those instructions that were condensed into the booklet are still on my website. If you wish you could ‘copy and paste’ the content into a Word document and print it.
Note that I have amended and updated my Bodice Block instructions but they are only currently available on YouTube (i.e. I don’t have any written instructions on my website for the updated instructions, they are only available on my YouTube videos.) There are links to my YouTube videos on my website, through the Main Menu > Videos.
I will be publishing a booklet on Drafting the Bodice Block (PDF and EPUB), hopefully in the next 4-6 weeks, but they will be for the amended instructions that include the Arcs (Upper Bust Arc Front, Upper Bust Arc Back, Bust Arc Front & Bust Arc Back) rather than the full measurements I used in my original instructions.
Hello. I love your YouTube videos! Comprehensive, complete, precise with sufficient theory to relate to the construction.
I WOULD LIKE TO PURCHASE A PDF INSTRUCTION BOOKLET FOR THE BODICE BLOCK, but I can’t seem to find the link. Can you help me please.
Also, with my backside being what it is I used your instructions to make a pair of trousers that fit! For the first time, when I sit down the trouser waist is actually still at waist height!
So impressive. I watched a few other videos but they did not explain about non standard figures and none of them even mentioned crotch length!
Thank you so much.
I am glad you had a good result with your Pants Block.
My Bodice Block booklet is running very late, I have been working on it for a few weeks but have had a few health setbacks. I am working on it today and tomorrow. I hope to have it up by tomorrow night – or at the latest at the end of this weekend (it is Friday morning here in Australia as I speak, so within the next 3 days).
When I have published it I will put links to it under the YouTube Bodice Block Videos – all the Updated Mar2022 versions (Bodice Front Imperial, Bodice Front Metric, Bodice Back Imperial and Bodice Back Metric). I will also post an update on my Ko-Fi page.
If you want to be advised when it is published, you could [b]Follow Me[/b] on my Ko-Fi page – that way you will be advised when I post an update, and I will post when I have published the book.
As my book will be uploaded to the Ko-Fi shop, when you are advised you can go to the shop and purchase the book.
Thank you so much for taking the time giving us this valuable information. I find it very useful and helping me a lot in my pattern making projects. Many thanks.
I hope you are aware that the Bodice Blocks instructions on my website are not the most recent – I have revised/improved my system since I wrote these original instructions back in 2016. I have tried noting this on various places on my website but I’m unsure if everyone does realize this.
My new content is now YouTube videos and the written instructions that accompany my YouTube videos are not available for free. Which is why I’ve left these original instructions here; they are the only free written instructions available.
I would suggest you watch the newer instructions on my YouTube channel – check them out on the Videos page of my website.