These flared sleeves are short sleeves that have added fullness in the the bicep. Note that if you put a cuff or elastic around the arm, this becomes one of the Puffed Sleeve styles.
These sleeves are created with the derivative sleeve block – the Dartless Sleeve Block.
Figure 1 – Drafting a Flared Sleeve
You could use the Standard Sleeve Block instead of the Dartless Sleeve Block; but creating and using the Dartless block saves having to do the same few steps every time you create sleeves with added fullness such as Puff Sleeves, Bishop Sleeves, Bell Sleeves, etc.
- Trace the Sleeve Block, in this case the sleeve length is 2-inches*.
- Transfer notch markings to the pattern.
Your design may, of course, have a different length.
If you are using the Standard Sleeve Block, the underarm line will taper; make sure you change this so the underarm seam-line is at right angles to the bicep line – as shown by the green arrow.
Figure 2 – Drafting a Flared Sleeve
- Divide the bicep line into six equal sections and draw vertical lines (six sections will result in five lines).
- Cut along these lines.
Figure 3 – Drafting a Flared Sleeve
- Spread the six pieces evenly so there is 1.75 inches between each piece.
Figure 4 – Drafting a Flared Sleeve
Lower the sleeve edge by the same amount of the spread; in this case 1.75-inches.
- Redraw the sleeve edge according to this depth to smooth of the curve – note the smoothed curve at the front armhole.
- Redraw the sleeve cap.
Figure 5 – Drafting a Flared Sleeve
- Mark the notches.
- Mark grainline.
Thank you! I’d learned the cut and spread method but your suggestion to lower the curve makes so much sense!
Either way isn’t right or wrong, you could choose to do it either way. It just depends on your taste really.