A-Line & Flared Skirts
A-Line Skirt from 2-Dart Block
This A-line skirt is created by closing one of the two waist darts on the 2-Dart block and adding an extension to the side. I will be using the cut and spread method in these instructions.
Note that this A-line style differs to the one made with the 1-Dart Block in that is has more flare in the hemline; a total of X inches is added to the hemline of the block (the outcome of closing one dart), compared to the 12 inches added in Style 01.
Note the following:
- This A-line style differs to the one made with the 1-Dart Block in that is has more flare in the hemline; a total of X inches is added to the hemline.
- The amount added using another block or your personalized block will not be the same; the final hem area will depend on the size of the waist dart being closed.
- In this example we are closing one waist dart completely (the one closer to the side seam) and letting the hem width be the outcome of the closure. It would be more usual to decide on the hem area and (after doing the math and working out how much insertion and extension is required for front and back) then closing the dart/s to achieve the desired amount.
Figure A shows the final flared skirts overlaid on the original 2-Dart block.
Although the front and back blocks and patterns may seem identical in this image, often there is some difference. The widths of the block may be different, and the dart values of the front and back are often different.
Figure B shows the difference between the two A-Lines in this menu. The pink is the one created with the 1-Dart Block and 12 inches in total was added to the hem area. The white with the blue outline is the outcome of this example where one of the darts, the side dart is closed.
Instructions (A Line Skirt from 2-Dart Block) – Figure 1
- Trace your front and back blocks onto paper.
- Make sure you mark the dart legs, the dart points and the hip notches.
Important Note: I am showing you the drafting of the Front and Back at the same time, but you would normally first draft the Front, then when finished that, draft the Back.
Instructions (A Line Skirt from 2-Dart Block) – Figure 2
Remove your block after you have finished tracing and marking points, then:
- Draw in the darts.
- Mark the CF and CB on the working pattern pieces.
- Draw lines from the hem to the waist dart points (the smaller dart waist closest to the side seam) squaring up from the hemline.
Instructions (A Line Skirt from 2-Dart Block) – Figure 3
- Cut along the line drawn in the last step; from the hemline to just before the dart point.
- Cut along one of the dart lines from the waist to just shy of the dart point, leaving a hinge of about 1/8-inch.
Instructions (A Line Skirt from 2-Dart Block) – Figure 4
We will close the waist dart completely, and let the insertion be what it may.
- Pivot the side pattern piece to close the waist dart.
- Put paper underneath to fill in the open section.
- Tape the pieces together.
In this image the paper is shown in yellow.
Instructions (A Line Skirt from 2-Dart Block) – Figure 5
- Measure out at the side seam for half the amount that was inserted by closing the dart.
- Draw a line from that point up to blend to the hip.
Instructions (A Line Skirt from 2-Dart Block) – Figure 6
- The hemline needs to be redrawn. Raise the side seam edge 1/4-inch, then blend from CF to the that new point using a curved ruler.
- Finish cutting out the pattern (outline shown in red).
- You also need to add the grainline; the A-line skirt is always cut on the straight grain to give the straight line to the hem. I have double headed arrow, if you have directional fabric, you would place the arrow in one direction only.
Generally this would be the working pattern. You would trace this off onto fresh paper and add seam allowance, cutting instructions etc. You would also need to draft a waistband*, or continue working on this pattern and draft the yoke, etc.
** See the menu for the Skirts Details items such as waistbands, pockets, etc.