Finishing Darts – Bodice Front Waist B

This example is for a very large waist dart – specifically the 1-Dart Block.   (For a waist dart that is about 1.75-inches wide or less,   i.e. the waist dart in the 2-Dart Block, see Finishing Darts Bodice Front Waist A  on the menu on this page).

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 01

This is the starting point: we have the block with the waist line not yet done; we need to create the dart.

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 02

Note that in that drawing a line straight down from the waist point for the mid-dart line is not ideal, and this image shows you why.  The mid-dart line is not an indication of the direction of the dart – the dart leg B is.  The waist dart in this case would be on a diagonal line, in the direction of CF.  This is fine if that is the design you want and you are aware of what you are doing, but the 1-Dart Block usually has a vertical waist dart.  See Figure 3 if this is unclear.

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 03

This shows shows the standard 1-Dart Block, with a vertical (or almost vertical) waist dart line on the left.

On the right is what the waist dart would look like in the case of Figure 2: where the mid-dart line is drawn straight down from the Bust Point to the waist, and is the center of the dart.

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 04

• Draw a line 3/16-inch below and parallel to the waist line.

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 05

• Draw a line from the Bust Point down to the waist – mark point A.
• Measure 0.5-inch to the left of point A, and mark point B.
• Draw the first dart leg from the Bust Point to point B.

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 06

• Calculate: waist measurement + 1 inch) ÷ 4 = x
• Measure from the CF waist point to point B = y
• Calculate x – y = waist remainder
• Draw a line from the side seam pint C to point B

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 07

• Draw a line from side seam point C to point B
• Using Waist Remainder measurement, measure along this line from the point C, the side seam, and mark point D.
• Draw the second dart leg, to be the same length as the other dart leg, from the Bust Point towards point D.  It may not reach the C~D line.  Mark this point F.
• Draw a line from point C to point F.

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 08

• Measure the distance between the two dart leg points, F & B, and mark the mid-point.
• Draw a line from the Bust Point through this mid-dart-point and extend it some distance beyond.

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 09

• Draw a curve from the CF waist to dart leg point B, and continue that curve until it reaches the mid-dart line.
• Draw a curve back towards the dart leg point D and continue until it reaches the side seam point C.

If you are unsure about the waist curve, see the examples on Curving the Waist that are listed on the menu on this page.

Finishing off Bodice Front Waist (B) – Figure 10

• Your waist dart is finished, your block (or pattern*) should look something like this.

* If you were making a pattern, you would need to add seam allowance.