Collars can be added to any neckline, and there are a couple of ways they can be described and/or categorized for patternmaking purposes.
  • Applied or grown on: refers to whether there are separate pattern pieces that are joined to the bodice front with a seam,  or the collar is an extension to the bodice (i.e. it is not a separate piece).  There are collars that can have both applied and grown collars  – e.g. the collar in Image A.
  • Stand or Flat: refers to whether the collar follows the curve of the neck or lies flat on the shoulder.  Collars can have a high stand or a low stand, or be flat.  There are some stands that a mix of the two; e.g. the Peter Pan collar is a flat collar that lies on the shoulders, but you can also give it a bit of a stand so that it extends up the back of the neck – however the Peter Pan collar always stays flat on the shoulder even when it has a high stand – see the next category…
  • Convertible or Non-Convertible: refers to whether the collar changes shape when it is closed with the top buttons or the buttons are open; or non-convertible, which keeps the same shape regardless.  Basic collars, rollover collars and shirt collars (both one-piece and two-piece) when buttoned up sit up around the neck, and when unbuttoned sit flat on the shoulder.  The Peter Pan collar, the rever and the shawl, etc (basically the flat collars), always sit flat on the shoulder, even when the button it done up.
The Stand/Flat and the Convertible and Non-Convertible seem to the same, just a different way of describing it.  It seems that Stand/Flat is the more common way of categorizing, but the Peter Pan collar can have a 1-inch stand but still sit flat on the shoulder – therefore a non-convertible collar could be a better way of describing it.

Applied and Grown On Collars

Applied collars are separate to the bodice; there will either be one or two pattern pieces for the collar.  Below is a list of some Applied and Grown on collars:

Applied Collars:

  • Mandarin Collar
  • Shirt Collar
  • Convertible Collar
  • Wing Collar
  • Clerical Collar
  • Sailor Collar
  • Puritan
  • Bertha
  • Pilgrim
  • Bow Collar

Grown On Collars:

  • Shawl Collar
  • Collars with Lapels (or Revers)
  • Chelsea Collar
  • Johnny Collar
Image B shows two Applied Collars and two Grown-on Collars.

Stand or Flat

Stand collars are ones that stand up around the neckline, examples are the Mandarin Collar and the Two-Piece Shirt collar.  Flat collars are ones that lie flat on the shoulder, like the Peter Pan collar.    The Convertible is both; it can be buttoned up to be high, or open to lie flat. The stand-up collar is not the exact shape of the neckline – the collar piece that attaches has a difference shape, whereas the flat collars are the exact shape of the neckline. There are a few ways to further categorize these collars, see below:

Band Collars

Band collars stand straight up from the neckline and does not have a fall.   The basic Band Collar (which is also actually the Mandarin Collar) is also the bottom part of the two-part Shirt Collar.
  • Band Collar
  • Ring Collar
  • Choke Collar
  • Portrait Collar
  • Chinese (Mandarin) Collar
  • Medic Collar
  • Clerical Collar
  • Bow Collar

High Stand Collars

High Stand collars can be made out of one piece of two pieces, or be grown on.  The most common high stand collar is the two-piece collar basic Shirt Collar.  The Shirt Collar is actually made from two other collars; the base is the Mandarin (or Band) Collar, and the top part is the standard one-piece collar.  The shape of the standard one-piece collar varies greatly.
  • Shirt Collar and all it’s variations (Button-down, Pin, Tab, Spread, Barrymore, Swallow-tail, etc).
  • Convertible Collar (also can be called a Rolled Collar, Turnover Collar or Turned Down Collar).
  • Lapel Collars
  • Johnny Collar
  • Chelsea Collar
The one piece Convertible Collar (also called Rolled Collar, Turned Down Collar or Turnover Collar) can have a straight edge at the neckline, it can have a convex curve or a concave curve.  What you use depends on the look you want to achieve.

Low Stand Collars

Low Stand collars sit flatter on the shoulders.  However, there is a range between High Stand and Low Stand collars.  Some low stand collars are:
  • Peter Pan Collar
  • Sailor Collar
  • Eton Collar
  • Bermuda Collar
  • Choir-boy Collar
  • Puritan Collar
  • Bishop Collar
  • Bertha Collar
  • Pilgrim Collar
Image C shows two High Stand Collars and two Low Stand Collars.

2 Responses

    1. Hi Michelle
      I don’t have that information on my website, and I have never drafted a portrait collar for myself.

      You could try a search on YouTube? (I haven’t seen instructions for a portrait collar in my textbooks, but I would assume that you first draft a built-up neckline (stovepipe/bateau – a neckline that stands away and up from the neck), then just draft a normal collar for the measurements of that neckline. Only a guess on my part).

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