Princess Line

Terminology Princess Line A dress or top with a seam-line that runs from the armhole to the hem, or the shoulder and the hem, where the bust and waist darts are incorporated into this seam. Examples Image 1 The  Extended Line Dress Block front and back with the princess line drawn through the armhole.  The […]

Pivoting Darts

Terminology Pivoting Darts Pivoting is one of the methods of moving  (or manipulating) darts that is used with the Bodice Bock. The standard Bodice Block usually has two darts in either (i) the side seam and waist, or (ii) shoulder seam and waist.  These darts can be moved to anywhere on the edges of that […]

Pattern Grainline

Terminology Pattern Grainline All patterns have an arrow marked on them to show how to place it on the grainline of the fabric.  This arrow is the Pattern Grainline and needs to be align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric. This means that the arrows of the Pattern Grainline always run parallel to the […]

Lengthwise Grain (Warp)

Terminology Lengthwise Grain (Warp) The thread/grain running the length of the fabric, parallel to the selvedges. This lengthwise grain is also known as the Straight Grain or the Warp. Woven fabric is made up of criss-crossed threads.  The threads running the length are the stronger thread, while the threads running along the cut-edge of the […]


Terminology Grading Pattern Grading is a technique for creating different sizes of a finished pattern. The initial pattern is created in a base size (not the smallest size), usually a size 10 or size 12. Once the pattern is perfected, the pattern is then made in the other sizes by increasing or decreasing the pattern […]


Terminology Facing Facing is fabric applied to the inside of the garment to (i) finish off the raw edge, (ii) strengthen the seam, and (iii) help maintain the shape of the garment.  Facing is mostly used on necklines, armholes and button-stands.  Facing is used to strengthen and finish off seams. Examples Image 1 The top […]

Empire Line

Terminology Empire Line A dress style where the bodice ends and the skirt begins just under the bust. Example Image 1 An example of a dress with an Empire Line.

Ease (Sleeves)

Terminology Ease (Sleeves) An allowance added to a curved sleeve to fit into the straighter line of the bodice armhole. What this means is that if you measured (i) the curve of the sleeve cap, and (ii) armhole curve where the sleeve is to be fitted, the sleeve cup measurement would be larger.   The extra […]

Direction of Grainline

Terminology Direction of Grainline Woven fabric consists of threads that are woven at 90 degrees to each other.  The line of the thread is called a “grain”.   The grain that runs the lengthwise of the fabric is called the warp (or just “lengthwise”) grain, and the horizontal threads of the fabric is called the […]

Dart Point

Terminology Dart Point A dart is made up of legs and a point.  The point is the apex of the dart. The Dart Point is directed towards fullness in the body; e.g. bust, hips, bottom etc. Examples Image 1 Showing the Dart Points (arrows in purple) on the Bodice Front 2-Dart Block. The Dart Points […]