Drafting Different Bust Cup Sizes

Drafting Different Bust Cup Sizes This article is to answer a question that I have had asked a number of times; basically “How/Where did I come up with the figures I use in Figure 2 in the Bodice Front Instructions that relate to drafting different bust cup sizes”. This information is already in numerous articles […]

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 3: Challenges for Non-Standard Figures

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 3: Challenges for Non-Standard Figures Woven vs Stretch There is Part 3 of this article.  Click here to go back to Part 2 Stretch Basics. If you have a very curvy figure, darts and design lines are your friend. Darts and design lines help you to draft clothes that are close […]

Reduction in Width for Stretch Blocks

Reduction in Width for Stretch Blocks As is my custom, before I started drafting a stretch/knit block for myself, I did a lot of research.  I looked at a number of textbooks (not just one), watched as many different video tutorials as I could, and then looked online to see if I could find anything […]

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 2: Blocks

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 2: Blocks Note that this is Part 2 of a series of 3 articles. Click here to go back to Part 1, Introduction. As knit/stretch fabric comes in different stretch ratios, you need to create different blocks to work with each stretch radio. For example, you need to use a different […]

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 1: Introduction

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 1: Introduction Note that this is Part 1 of a series of 3 articles. This article covers the following: Difference between Woven and Knit Fabrics How fabric stretches How to tell the difference between Stretchwovens and Knits One-Way Stretch, Two-Way Stretch and Four-Way Stretch Amount of Stretch (or Stretch Ratio) How […]

Cutting Bias Strips (of Consistent Width)

Cutting Bias Strips (of Consistent Width) For a long time I avoided using bias finish on my necklines and armholes even though  I preferred the look of bias to facings.  It wasn’t only the sewing of the bias I found difficult, it was cutting the bias strips so that the width was consistent.  The methods […]

Fabric Burn Test Chart

Fabric Burn Test Chart If you don’t know what kind of fabric you have…. I sometimes buy fabric at a thrift store, and sometimes I’m not sure what kind of fabric it is.  I don’t usually use synthetic fabric for making clothing, but if it’s cheap enough I’ll buy it to stablise other fabric*; it […]

Ease in Patterns and Blocks

Ease in Patterns and Blocks This article will give you a guide to adding ease when you want to add ease to create jackets, coats, shirts, etc.  Note that these are not step-by-step instructions for creating these garments; this article is only an overview on adding ease.  The measurements given are standards, they are not […]

Fit: A Perfect Fit or a Good Enough Fit? (Including Asymmetrical Figures)

Fit: A Perfect Fit or a Good Enough Fit? (Including Asymmetrical Figures) The Challenges of a Perfect Fit (For Women in Particular) There are a few reasons why pursuing a perfect fit can sometimes seem a fools errand.   In this article I am talking in particular about garments made of woven fabrics rather than […]

Understanding the Sleeve Part 1: The Fitted Sleeve Block

Understanding the Sleeve Part 1: The Fitted Sleeve Block There are four parts to this article on Understanding the Sleeve and they follow on from each other. On this website there are instructions to make a Fitted Sleeve Block.  These articles explain the sleeve in this context; making a personalized Fitted Sleeve Block.  This means […]