Drafting Different Bust Cup Sizes

Drafting Different Bust Cup Sizes This article is to answer a question that I have had asked a number of times; basically “How/Where did I come up with the figures I use in Figure 2 in the Bodice Front Instructions that relate to drafting different bust cup sizes”. This information is already in numerous articles […]

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 1: Introduction

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 1: Introduction Note that this is Part 1 of a series of 3 articles. This article covers the following: Difference between Woven and Knit Fabrics How fabric stretches How to tell the difference between Stretchwovens and Knits One-Way Stretch, Two-Way Stretch and Four-Way Stretch Amount of Stretch (or Stretch Ratio) How […]

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 2: Blocks

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 2: Blocks Note that this is Part 2 of a series of 3 articles. Click here to go back to Part 1, Introduction. As knit/stretch fabric comes in different stretch ratios, you need to create different blocks to work with each stretch radio. For example, you need to use a different […]

Reduction in Width for Stretch Blocks

Reduction in Width for Stretch Blocks As is my custom, before I started drafting a stretch/knit block for myself, I did a lot of research.  I looked at a number of textbooks (not just one), watched as many different video tutorials as I could, and then looked online to see if I could find anything […]

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 3: Challenges for Non-Standard Figures

Stretch Basics for Patternmaking 3: Challenges for Non-Standard Figures Woven vs Stretch There is Part 3 of this article.  Click here to go back to Part 2 Stretch Basics. If you have a very curvy figure, darts and design lines are your friend. Darts and design lines help you to draft clothes that are close […]

Cutting Bias Strips (of Consistent Width)

Cutting Bias Strips (of Consistent Width) For a long time I avoided using bias finish on my necklines and armholes even though  I preferred the look of bias to facings.  It wasn’t only the sewing of the bias I found difficult, it was cutting the bias strips so that the width was consistent.  The methods […]

Fabric Burn Test Chart

Fabric Burn Test Chart If you don’t know what kind of fabric you have…. I sometimes buy fabric at a thrift store, and sometimes I’m not sure what kind of fabric it is.  I don’t usually use synthetic fabric for making clothing, but if it’s cheap enough I’ll buy it to stablise other fabric*; it […]

Ease in Patterns and Blocks

Ease in Patterns and Blocks This article will give you a guide to adding ease when you want to add ease to create jackets, coats, shirts, etc.  Note that these are not step-by-step instructions for creating these garments; this article is only an overview on adding ease.  The measurements given are standards, they are not […]

Fit: A Perfect Fit or a Good Enough Fit? (Including Asymmetrical Figures)

Fit: A Perfect Fit or a Good Enough Fit? (Including Asymmetrical Figures) The Challenges of a Perfect Fit (For Women in Particular) There are a few reasons why pursuing a perfect fit can sometimes seem a fools errand.   In this article I am talking in particular about garments made of woven fabrics rather than […]

Understanding the Sleeve Part 2: The Sleeve Cap Curve

Understanding the Sleeve Part 2: The Sleeve Cap Curve There are four parts to this article on Understanding the Sleeve and they follow on from each other. The main fitting problem with sleeves, or at least the difficult part to understand, is the armhole.  Fitting as regards to the length of the sleeve is fairly […]