Drafting the Bodice Block Set

General Information: Drafting the Bodice Block

Please note that I have since revised my Bodice Block instructions; my system has changed significantly.  Please see my YouTube channel for my step-by-step videos using my revised system. 

The reason I have left these older written instructions on my website as they still work pretty well for most people and they are the only FREE written instructions I have.   The only way to access my new revised system in written form is through my Ko-Fi shop and they cost $10.00.   

I would encourage people to use my new system available on my YouTube channel instead of using these written instructions on my website.

All the information below relate to the written instructions on my website, not the instructions on my YouTube channel.

Snippet example of the information found on this page

This page contains 7 sections as shown below.  Click on the links to go directly to the sections:

  1. (Example) Measurements (Used to draft the Bodice Block).
  2. Upper Bust Ease
  3. Bust Point to Dart Point
  4. Side Seam Dart Placement
  5. 1-Dart or 2-Dart Bodice Front?
  6. Curving the Waist
  7. Measurements and Information: Downloadable PDF File

(1) Measurements

When following along with the step-by-step instructions, you would usually use your own measurements to create your own block.  Sometimes, however, in order to understand or check what I am doing, you may need to refer to the measurements that I am using.  The measurements listed here are the Body Measurement that I use in those instructions to draft the block. Note that my instructions require the Upper Bust measurement rather than the Bust measurement.  If you want a detailed explanation of why, please read: Why Upper Bust rather than Bust? The short explanation is that it allows us to create C-Cup, D-Cup or other larger bust cups within the instructions, rather than create the block for a B-bust-cup, then have to do a bust adjustment.  If you have a large bust compared to your upper bust and you use your bust measurement, you will end up with too much ease in the Upper Bust/Armhole area, which will probably show as gaping in the armhole. This method allows all bust-cups (including B-bust cup, which is the ‘standard’) to create a block that fits in the armhole area as well as the bust. If you have a large bust compared to your upper bust and you use your bust measurement, you will end up with too much ease in the Upper Bust/Armhole area, which will probably show as gaping in the armhole. This method allows all bust-cups (including B-bust cup, which is the ‘standard’) to create a block that fits in the armhole area as well as the bust. A download file of these measurements can be found at the bottom of the page, below the table. You can print these measurements ou to make it easier to follow along with the instructions.

Bodice Front – Body Measurements

Bodice Front inches
Full Length Front 17.5
Upper Bust 34
     Bust – B Cup 36
     Bust – C Cup 37
     Bust – D Cup 38
Centre Front Length 14.52
Across Shoulder Front 7.63
Shoulder Slope Front 17.62
Shoulder Length 5.08
Bust Depth (B Cup) 10.25
Bust Span (B Cup) 3.75
Across Chest 6.76
Front Armhole Depth 8.33
Side Length 8.06
Waist 28
Waist Arc Front 7

Bodice Back – Body Measurements

Bodice BACK inches
Full Length Back 17.37
Upper Bust 34
Centre Back Length 16.63
Across Shoulder Back 7.75
Shoulder Slope Back 17.25
Back Neck 3.06
Across Back 7.25
Shoulder Length 5.08
Waist 28
Waist Arc Back 7.0
Dart Placement 2.88
Side Length 8.06

(2) Upper Bust Ease

This article was updated on 13 April 2020, changing the Upper Bust ease from 6-inches to 5-inches. On the introductory page I have noted that the amount of ease to add to the Upper Bust is 5 inches; this amount of ease will work pretty well for all Bust Cup Sizes, and will result in between 2 and 3 inches ease in the Bust. You can, however, use the amount of ease listed in the table below instead.  Using the amounts specified in the table will more consistently result in 3 inches ease in the bust.

Upper Bust Ease that will result in 3 inches ease in the Bust

Bust Cup Amount of Ease
No difference between UB and B 3.50 inches | 11.50 cm
A-Cup 3.87 inches | 12.25 cm
B-Cup 4.25 inches | 13.25 cm
C-Cup 4.63 inches | 14.25 cm
D-Cup 5 inches | 15.25 cm
DD-Cup 5.38 inches | 16.25 cm
For details about this specific amount of ease, see the article: Why Upper Bust rather than Bust? See below for all the articles that relate in some form or other to the Upper Bust Ease:

(3) Bust Point to Dart Point

This information relates to to the instructions in Figure 15 of Bodice Front Instructions.  This is the measurement from the Bust Point to the Dart Point for the waist and side-seam darts. This is a general guide and a starting point; after making a toile you will check if this works for your body, and make any relevant changes on your toile and your block. The sizes listed are consistent with Commercial Sewing Patterns.

Waist Dart

Upper Bust 28.5 29.5 30.5 32 34 36 38 40 42
Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
B-Cup  (in inches) 0 .63 0 .63 0 .75 0 .75 0 .75 1 1 1 1
C-Cup (in inches) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
D-Cup (in inches) 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25

Side Seam Dart

Upper Bust 28.5 29.5 30.5 32 34 36 38 40 42
Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
B-Cup  (in inches) 0 .75 0 .75 0 .88 0 .88 0 .88 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25
C-Cup (in inches) 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25
D-Cup (in inches) 1.25 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5

(4) Side Seam Dart Placement

This information relates to Figure 9 of Bodice Front (2-Dart) Instructions. This is a general guide for the placement of the side seam dart, measured down from the armhole.
Upper Bust 28.5 29.5 30.5 32 34 36 38 40 42
Size 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
Measure down from Underarm Point 2 2.08 2.16 2.25 2.36 2.45 2.54 2.62 2.7

(5) 1-Dart or 2-Dart Block?

This website contains two sets of instructions to make the Bodice Front:  the Bodice Front 1-Dart and  the Bodice Front 2-Dart Blocks .  So why are there two sets of instructions, and which should you use?
Bodice Front 2-Dart Block & Bodice Front 1-Dart Block
Bodice Front: 2-Dart & 1-Dart
Well, that depends… In terms of making patterns, if you are an experienced patternmaking, it doesn’t make any difference which one you use.   Manipulating darts  (i.e. moving darts or parts of darts) is part of the fundamentals of patternmaking.  So there is no reason to use one block over rather than convention and preference. As a general rule, you would not often make a garment with one dart, as one large dart can create distortion in the garment (the larger your bust cup, the more this will apply).  However, as said above, you can use the one-dart block regardless, because you can make the necessary changes when drafting the pattern.  However, given that you would more often make garments with a dart in the side seam than not, it means there is a little bit less work if you use the two-dart block.  So, I think it’s fairly safe to say that using the two-dart block will save a bit of time and work each time you make a pattern. It may also be useful to have and use both blocks.  If you do decide to use both blocks, it is not necessary to make both from scratch: if you make one, you can use the principle of Manipulating Darts to create the other block.  It will take far less time to create one block from the other than to create it again from scratch. So, again, why do I have instructions for both?  Which one should you create from scratch?  Well, it’s up to you. Here is some information to help you decide:
  • The 2-Dart Block is usually the standard.
  • Creating the 1-Dart Block will probably be easier in comprehend.  Using this 1-Dart Block to create a 2-Dart Block will also make more sense than creating the 2-Dart Block directly.
  • The 2-Dart Block will usually be the one I use in my instructions for making patterns, so if you want to follow along with those instructions, and you are new to patternmaking, having a 2-Dart Bodice Block makes sense.
  • There is no harm in having both a 1-Dart Block and a 2-Dart Block; which you prefer will be a personal decision.
So; it’s up to you.   If you are brand new to patternmaking, creating the 1-Dart Block, then using that to create the 2-Dart Block, will probably make more sense, in terms of comprehension.  However, you could choose to create the 2-Dart Block directly.  If you create the 2-Dart Block, you can choose to create a 1-dart block from that. Personally, I like having both, and use the 1-Dart Block quite a lot.

(6) Curving the Waist

When creating the Bodice Block, both the one-dart and the two-dart Block, we created a curved waist line. This page shows
  • how that curve was achieved
  • why we have this curve, and
  • how you can create/check the curve whenever you need to when creating your own patterns.
Both the 1-Dart Block and the 2-Dart Block are used to cover these aims in the examples below.

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 1

In the instructions for creating the 1-Dart Block, dart leg A is extended below the waistline, and dart leg B is drawn to be the same length as dart leg A. This is shown in Figure 1. Dart leg closest to the CF is extended below the waist for 3/16 inch

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 1b

This is just a close-up of Figure 1, showing the final curve.  What this final curve looks like may not be obvious, and how to draw the curve from dart leg B to the side seam might also not be obvious. This is why will will go back to the beginning and work through creating the curve, showing also how to create or check any waistline curve. Curve from CF to first dart leg and curve from second dart leg to side seam

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 2

In Figure 02, I have taken dart leg A only to the waist, then made dart leg B the same length as dart leg A (as both dart legs must be the same length). Dart legs drawn to waist line

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 3

Figure 3 shows the resulting angular line when the dart is closed. As this isn’t a reflection of what the body looks like,  we need to amend that line. Example of the angular line that results when darts are drawn to waistline only

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 4

Figure 4 shows a more practical waistline with a curve. The preferred curve shown with the dart closed

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 5

In Figure 5, I have cut the curve at the dart point, and moved the side panel back to the original position, together with the portion of the curve. You can see then how we can create the curve; by extending the dart legs down about 3/16-inch, and then blending back to the original line.  This is what was shown in Figure 1, up the top of the page. The preferred curve shown with the dart open

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 6

In Figure 6, I have just placed Figure 5 on top of the image in Figure 1.  So now you can see why, when creating the block, we extended the dart leg below the waistline, and that when the dart is closed, the waistline has a curve rather than angles. Although you may now understand that, you may still have a few issues, which we will look at from Figure 7. The necessary curve

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 7

Looking at Figure 7, it might be obvious how to draw the curve from the CF to dart leg A point which is 3/16-inch below the waistline, but drawing the curve from dart leg B to the side seam line may not be so obvious. In Figure7 it is currently a straight line). In Figure7, the dart leg B to side-seam line is currently a straight line. The waistline from CF to first dart leg curved, but from second dart leg to side seam is straight

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 8

To determine the curve from dart leg B to the side seam, you can do what I did in Figure 3: trace a portion of the block, pivot it and work out the curve, then pivot it back and complete the line. This is shown step-by-step in the next few figures below. Figure 8: trace out the portion to pivot – shown in green. Traced section of the block used to get the desired curve

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 9

  • Pivot the traced portion (pivot on the Bust Point), until the dart is closed.
  • Draw the curve on the tracing paper
Pivot traced out section to close the dart and draw in desired curve

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 10

  • Pivot it back to the original position, and draw the curve on the block/pattern.
Pivot traced out section back to original position and trace the curve

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 11

IMPORTANT!

Make sure you don’t end up with this kind of angle on the side seam; the side seam curve needs to blend into a 90-degree angle at the corner – as is the case for the CF. Incorrect shaping at the side seam; it needs to be a right-angle seam like the CF

Curving the Waist, Bodice Front – Figure 12

You can use the same method to check and draw any waist curve – another example is shown using the 2-Dart Block in Figure 12.

(7) Download Measurements and Information (PDF File)

4 Responses

  1. Hi,
    I love your website! beautiful and very informative.
    could you show how to take those measurements?
    some of them are not so clear (:

    Thank you!

  2. Hello Natali

    I have been wanting to make a video on taking measurements for some time. I have a couple of problems; one is limited time to spend on my website at the moment, the second is finding a model for the video. The problems related to the model include COVID issues (can’t keep 1.5 metres distance when measuring someone) and finding a model (who I can measure) at an affordable rate, as I don’t earn enough money to cover my costs on this website!.

    Basically when I can, I will. That will still be a month or two from now.

  3. Thank you for sharing all these awesome resources. Will the measurements be updated (adding Bust Depth @ Side Seam “J to K’, Upper Bust Arcs, Bust Arcs) to follow along with the new March 2022 Bodice Videos? I couldn’t find them but would find it so helpful to follow along as you draft. Thanks!

  4. Hello Carla

    If you watch BOTH:
    (1) The Measurements video, AND
    (2) The beginning of the March 2022 Bodice Front Instructions Video, then you will have all the necessary information for taking measurements.

    (I.e. The Measurements video had a few mistakes, but those mistakes are explained, together with the corrections at the beginning of the Bodice Front Instructions March 2022 video).

    (I’m a little confused thought… you say “will the measurements be updated.. to include the Bust Arc”…. are you referring to the Measurements Video? (My confusion is that the Bust Arcs and Bust Depth at Side Seam are included in the Measurements video… I’ll include a link in case you haven’t seen it).

    Anyway… the two videos I have mentioned will get you the information you need.

    Cheers
    Maria

    Here is a link to the Measurements video in case you haven’t seen it:

    https://youtu.be/xRiuxrwDJG8

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